Week in Reviews
Monday, May 19, 2008
In his Sunday review of Luce, Michael Bauer echoes many common sentiments about Dominique Crenn's Cal-Ital restaurant in the InterContinental Hotel in a 2.5 star review, namely that the hotel vibe is just too strong: "It's a modern, pleasant space that can't quite shake the feel of a corporate restaurant, with its impossibly high ceilings, alternating marble and dark wood floors and curved glass wall ... Unfortunately, for all [Crenn's] talent, some dishes seem a little dated - a little too high-end hotel That diminishes her solid grasp of lusty flavors in dishes such as the onion and Grana Padano soup with a rich, creamy texture punctuated by chewy nibs of farro, enhanced with a drizzle of parsley oil and a topping of crisp baby calamari." [Chron]
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