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Eater 38

The 38 Essential San Francisco Restaurants, Nov. '09

2005_10_eater38logo.jpgTo ring in November, here, now, the newly updated version of the Eater 38, your answer and ours to any question that begins, “Can you recommend a restaurant…” This highly elite group covers the entire city, spans myriad cuisines and, collectively, satisfies all of your restaurant needs, save for those occasions when you absolutely must spend half a paycheck. Every month or so, we'll be adding pertinent restaurants that were omitted, have newly become eligible, or have stepped up their game. We'll also drop those that are no longer deemed 38-worthy. After reading the comments on the original list, poring over the emails sent to to the tipline, and tuning in to various back channels, we're dropping sentimental favorites/wild cards Allegro Romano, Washington Square B&G and Ocean Taqueria. New to the 38, we're adding Boulevard, Range and now that it's got six months under its belt, the newly-eligible Flour + Water. Welcome to the dance floor, kids.

Think there's a vital omission? Rather than a stage-four, fist-shaking panic attack over your favorite restaurant's exclusion from the list, wouldn't it be more productive to just nominate it for inclusion?

1. Slanted Door ... 38. Zare at Fly Trap. >>
1

Slanted Door

San Francisco Ferry Bldg - San Francisco Pier 48, San Francisco, CA, USA


Charles Phan broke the mold for modern Vietnamese food when he opened the original Slanted Door in the Mission a decade ago, and his Ferry Building incarnation remains the standard-bearer of ingredient-driven Asian cuisine.
[link]

N 37° 47.43807 W 122° 23.37319
2

Boulevard

1 Mission St
San Francisco, CA 94105



Nancy Oakes and Ravi Kapur have the ever-popular Boulevard firing on all cylinders nowadays. The Kuleto design is timeless, service is flawless, and the counter/ bar is one of the best places to eat in town too.

[link]

N 37° 47.35952 W 122° 23.33939
3

Perbacco

230 California St
San Francisco, CA 94111

Mature and stylish, Perbacco has quickly established itself as one of the best Italian restaurants in the city. Owner Umberto Gibin is a presence in the front of house, and Staffan Terje runs the kitchen.
[link]

N 37° 47.36225 W 122° 23.57699
4

Tadich Grill

240 California St
San Francisco, CA 94111

(415) 391-1849

It's the oldest restaurant in San Francisco, but the seafood is some of the freshest in town. Not even a fire can keep the old fella down for long.
[link]

N 37° 47.36196 W 122° 23.58027
5

Bix Restaurant

56 Gold St
San Francisco, CA 94133

Tucked away in a random Financial District alley, Bix is a restaurant like no other in the city. Live jazz hums in the corner, classic cocktails flow at the bar and the high-ceilinged, two-tiered dining room is alive and popping every night.
[link]

N 37° 47.48696 W 122° 24.10468
6

COI Restaurant

373 Broadway
San Francisco, CA 94133

On a lonely stretch of Broadway, Daniel Patterson combines modern technique with the best ingredients from local farms to create a four-star restaurant, proving he’s one of the best chefs in the country.
[link]

N 37° 47.53336 W 122° 24.12473
7

R & G Lounge

631 Kearny St
San Francisco, CA 94108

It’s step up in price from the typical Chinatown joint, but the cavernous R&G is a favorite of many and the fried Dungeness has become a signature.
[link]

N 37° 47.38533 W 122° 24.17006
8

Swan Oyster Depot

1517 Polk St
San Francisco, CA 94109

Open only for lunch, Polk Street’s old school joint still churns out the best crab, oysters and sourdough in town.
[link]

N 37° 47.27146 W 122° 25.14768
9

Big 4

1075 California St
San Francisco, CA 94108

Because where else can you sit in stuffed leather chairs and sip ice-cold martinis and listen to an old man in a three-piece suit play the piano in the presence of a couple celebrating their 60th wedding anniversary?
[link]

N 37° 47.28932 W 122° 24.43372
10

Canteen

817 Sutter St
San Francisco, CA 94109

His Sentinel offshoot has grabbed more headlines lately, but Dennis Leary—one of the great underrated young chefs in SF—still has a great thing going. Dinner and brunch.

N 37° 47.20021 W 122° 24.49636
11

Ryoko Restaurant & Bar

619 Taylor St
San Francisco, CA 94102

A favorite late night stop of many industry folk.
[link]

N 37° 47.17217 W 122° 24.42386
12

Turtle Tower Restaurant

631 Larkin St
San Francisco, CA 94109

Because nothing complements another foggy evening in SF quite like a bowl of clean pho in the TL.
[link]

N 37° 47.1755 W 122° 25.3698
13

Absinthe Brasserie & Bar

398 Hayes St
San Francisco, CA 94102

At the forefront of the artisanal cocktail movement years ago. Dining room might be a bit stuffy these days, but the bar area is still among the best in the city for a quick bite (fries, burger, JL’s hot dog) and the aforementioned cocktail program. PS Insert scallop joke here.
[link]

N 37° 46.37257 W 122° 25.22429
14

Zuni Cafe

1658 Market St
San Francisco, CA 94102

Sunday afternoon at Zuni, oysters, Balsamic bloody Marys, thin crust pizza. More please.
[link]

N 37° 46.25226 W 122° 25.16964
15

Sebo

517 Hayes St
San Francisco, CA 94102

Those white guys sure know their (sustainable) fish. Sitting at the sushi bar is always a memorable experience.
[link]

N 37° 46.35799 W 122° 25.29762
16

DOSA on Fillmore

1700 Fillmore St
San Francisco, CA 94115

Many favor the original Valencia location, and perhaps rightly so, but the bigger, shinier version of Anjan and Emily Mitra’s ode to South Indian cuisine has the same menu favorites and then some. It’s beginning to hit its stride too.
[link]

N 37° 47.7288 W 122° 25.58216
17

Laiola

2031 Chestnut St
San Francisco, CA 94123

It can be loud and Marina-y, but eating at the big copper bar with a spicy beer makes for a great vantage point. The pan con chocolate is in the conversation of best dessert in SF.
[link]

N 37° 48.2440 W 122° 26.12444
18

A16

2355 Chestnut St
San Francisco, CA 94123

Shelley Lindgren has crafted one of the best Italian wine programs in the country, the pizzas are still spot-on, service is gracious and chef Liza Shaw has kept the ever-popular restaurant firing on all cylinders.
[link]

N 37° 47.59254 W 122° 26.31397
19

Spruce

3640 Sacramento St
San Francisco, CA 94118

SF has never been mistaken for a fine dining town, yet the two-year old Spruce has proved to be an absolute homerun in its ritzy Laurel Heights environs.
[link]

N 37° 47.15226 W 122° 27.9820
20

Nopa

560 Divisadero St
San Francisco, CA 94117

In many ways, it’s an updated take on the Zuni formula, with the success to show. Both neighborhood standby and destination restaurant, Nopa continues to grow admirably under Chef Jossel. Honorable mention to its little Mexican sis, Nopalito.
[link]

N 37° 46.29413 W 122° 26.14917
21

Namu

439 Balboa St
San Francisco, CA 94118

Namu is a family affair and it feels like it. Ingredients are top notch, and it's quickly become one of the best modern Asian places in town. And the Korean tacos are on the menu now.

N 37° 46.38010 W 122° 27.49427
22

Aziza

5800 Geary Blvd
San Francisco, CA 94121

Mourad Lahlou is a chef that should/will soon be on the national radar. His Cal-Moroccan cuisine is only getting better with three-star chef Louis Maldonado aboard.
[link]

N 37° 46.49450 W 122° 28.53943
23

Cliff House

1090 Point Lobos Ave
San Francisco, CA 94121

George Morrone is dearly departed, but the ocean view is still the best in the city. A simple reminder of why you live in San Francisco.
[link]

N 37° 46.36076 W 122° 30.42872
24

Magnolia Pub & Brewery

1398 Haight St
San Francisco, CA 94117

Even with the Grateful Dead mural covered up, what restaurant better personifies the Haight? It doesn’t hurt that Dave McLean’s housemade brews are unparallel either.
[link]

N 37° 46.13209 W 122° 26.42658
25

Zazie

941 Cole St
San Francisco, CA 94117

In the already-charming Cole Valley, Zazie is by no means a secret, but it holds a special place in the hearts of many in the ‘hood.
[link]

N 37° 45.54683 W 122° 26.59467
26

Incanto Restaurant & Wine Bar

1550 Church St
San Francisco, CA 94131

Chris Cosentino has revolutionized the way that American chefs treat offal with his work at Incanto, but the restaurant is so much more. His flavors can be complex and unconventional, his menu is witty, and owner Mark Pastore and team run the entire operation seamlessly.
[link]

N 37° 44.45387 W 122° 25.37919
27

Blue Plate

3218 Mission St
San Francisco, CA 94110

Modern comfort food at its finest. And they have a cool sign out front too.
[link]

N 37° 44.43274 W 122° 25.12266
28

La Taqueria

2889 Mission St
San Francisco, CA 94110

With all due apologies to Corneta, Cancun and the random Mission taqueria of your choice, there’s a reason that La Taq keeps taking top honors in this category.
[link]

N 37° 45.3185 W 122° 25.4990
29

Beretta

1199 Valencia St
San Francisco, CA 94110

Pizza, cocktails, late night: all familiar concepts, but put together seamlessly by a veteran team of Adriano Pagannini, Deborah Blum and Ruggero Galdadi and you get Beretta.
[link]

N 37° 45.13924 W 122° 25.14354
30

Range

842 Valencia St
San Francisco, CA 94110



From the cocktail program to the always solid menu, Range is one of the most consistent restaurants in town. And, for what it's worth, it's got the only Michelin star in the Mission.

[link]

N 37° 45.33836 W 122° 25.17212
31

Foreign Cinema

2534 Mission St
San Francisco, CA 94110

Like Zuni, a onetime trailblazer inspired by the Chez Panisse mantra. And like Zuni, a fully-fledged restaurant on all levels, from food to service.
[link]

N 37° 45.22701 W 122° 25.7791
32

Delfina/Pizzeria Delfina

3621 18th St
San Francisco, CA 94110

You can make the argument that no restaurant in the last decade has changed the dining landscape quite like Delfina and its pizzeria offshoot next door. And that’s a good thing.
[link]

N 37° 45.41446 W 122° 25.27897
33

Bar Bambino

2931 16th St
San Francisco, CA 94103

Late afternoon rose on the back patio. Salumi to follow.
[link]

N 37° 45.53668 W 122° 25.5732
34

Flour and Water

2401 Harrison St
San Francisco, CA 94110



Since it opened in May, F+W has been making waves with its sophisticated pizzas and pasta, but even more impressive is that it's lived up to the hype. Chef Thomas McNaughton was made a partner this month and is a surefire bet to get included on the year's rising star chef lists.

[link]

N 37° 45.32122 W 122° 24.43869
35

Blue Bottle Cafe

66 Mint St
San Francisco, CA 94103

The gourmet coffee company has been multiplying throughout the Bay, but as charming as the Hayes Valley original garage outpost is, the Mint Plaza location was BB’s coming-out party.
[link]

N 37° 46.56427 W 122° 24.27223
36

AME Restaurant

689 Mission St
San Francisco, CA 94105

Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani have crafted one of the most underrated East/West dining experiences in town. The space is a looker too.
[link]

N 37° 47.11011 W 122° 24.6296
37

Town Hall Restaurant

342 Howard St
San Francisco, CA 94105

Doug Washington and the Rosenthal Brothers have gone on to open Salt House and Anchor & Hope since Town Hall, but the original is still the crown jewel in their SoMa mini-empire.
[link]

N 37° 47.22560 W 122° 23.41657
38

Zaré at Fly Trap

606 Folsom St
San Francisco, CA 94105

Chef/owner Hoss Zare defines hospitality. His restaurant is unlike any other in the city with its big, bold, unfamiliar flavors in the historic setting of the Fly Trap.
[link]

N 37° 47.7098 W 122° 23.50254
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