The Kauff takes a look at two SF sushi restaurants that are "taking American-style sushi into new territory." At Noe Valley's Tataki South, owners Kin Lui and Raymond Ho stick to sustainable fish in accordance with the Monterey Bay Aquarium guidelines. There are some authentic seeming options, "but the majority of the dishes on the tables are ornately garnished, balls-out American rolls." Although Kauff doesn't like the style in general, there are some things he finds passable: "none of the flavors got lost" in the ratatouille roll ($9) and the happy hour tempura sweet potato maki is "a great snack to accompany $2.50 pints of Sapporo." SoMa's Sushirrito follows a similar sustainable, Americanized tack. Its signature sushirritos measure up to the "girth and length of a rice-free La Taqueria burrito." And Kauffman is good about judging these burrito-sushi hybrids through the lens of the downtown worker looking for "something healthy and tasty you can down in 30 minutes." Still he only likes half of the offers: The Smokin' Chicken, Buddha Boy and Crispy Ebi "make for a fine lunch." [SF Weekly]
Bauertown starts his Poggio update review with a pat on the back to chef Peter McNee, "who continually changes his menu and builds excitement, even in tough economic times." The restaurant's newly formalized bollito misto cart is an "amazing deal," he'd "put McNee's sformatino ($9) up against anyone's," the lemon mousse is "one of the best I've had" and everything's "surprisingly well priced" considering the "resplendent" surrounds. In stark contrast to what went down at The Ritz earlier, Bauer "can practically taste the chef's passion in each and every bite." So it's three stars for food and another big three overall. [SFGate]
The Reidinger is way late to the game with 16-month-old Frances, but he reviews older restaurants all the time, so we guess it's ok. He calls Melissa Perello's menu "an expertly sown patchwork quilt of influences and ingredients" and gives her props for drawing crowds to an unfrequented block. So great is the experience that he counts Frances among the best restaurants in the city, along with Firefly and Delfina: "a wonderful Californian arabesque of this and that, with a deep root in a rustic Franco-Italian tradition." [SFBG]
The Elsewhere: Stett Holbrook joins the fan club for Woodside's Station One , Marin IJ calls Thailand Restaurant "a good fit" for Mill Valley, the EBX feels happy at Disco Volante in Oakland, The Merc thinks Hercules' Powder Keg is unique, the second Chron Datebook review is a two star deal at Novato's Ghiringhelli Pizzeria Grill & Bar, Bargain Bite hits Maru Ichi in Mountain View and Bar Bites digs in at Bar Agricole.
Sushi bar at Tataki South. [Photo: Yelp/David S.]