... looking over the menu, I had my doubts that the quality had been maintained. The description of the dishes didn't draw me in, and the amus-bouche - cucumber gelee with a bitter-tasting slice of grapefruit - braced me for further disappointment.
All that changed with the shot glass of French onion soup with Parmesan and breadcrumb foam ($6 for 2) that tasted just as you'd expect, with the sweetness of the main ingredient, the tang of cheese and nuttiness of the bread ... At first I thought the kitchen stumbled when the ricotta-filled ravioli ($17) came out looking dry, covered with breadcrumbs and equally dry slices of sauteed artichoke. Yet, one bite and I realized the dish scored big time.
Maybe Bauer's low expectations—or perhaps his fondness for husband-and-wife teams—helped out the cause, but whatever the case, his update is a positive one, resulting in an upgrade to three stars along with the conclusion that Cortez is "back on top." [Chron] NEXT: Shokolaat, Joey & Eddie's, Cava22 and The Elsewhere >>
All closure notices arrive via The Shutter. Please pass along all sightings to the hotline. Shuttered, at approx. 7pm last night.
Polk Gulch: Here we have the curious case of O'Reilly's Holy Grail. Earlier this week, it came to our attention that O'Reilly's closed the kitchen and laid off all kitchen staff, leaving only the bar operating. To make matters (much) more ominous, a spot inspection last night revealed that the entire place to be closed all together, and the phone disconnected. But then the situation takes a turn for the curious: the sister O'Reilly's in North Beach insists that the Holy Grail is, in fact, open ... which would appear to go against the direct evidence above. Perhaps it's a hiatus while the kitchen mess gets sorted out? Or maybe they're hopping on the bandwagon and turning it into a gastropub?
UPDATE: This horror story may or may not be related to the current situation.
We've heard rumblings of this before, and now some commenters are speculating that late night destination Grubstake is very possibly on the market as that "famous" Nob Hill restaurant: "Gotta be Grubstake. Featured on Food Network and it's exactly 45 years old (originally Dan's Diner). Sad to read that the wonderful owner couple are going to retire." A lot of the listing details—e.g. six outdoor patio seats—do add up. Take it as you will. [EaterWire]
Which "famous" Nob Hill steakhouse is on the market? The clues with which to work: total asking price of $3.3 million, same owner since 1989, established 45 years ago, dinner daily, lunch on weekends only, 49 seats inside, six seats outside, 2000 square feet, reason for sale: "retirement." Go! [BizBen]
Nob Hill: For the time being, there's not much else new to say on the health care surcharge issue. Points have been made, and truth be told, we see both sides. But less easy to digest for some is a charge for ... water equipment:
Starting this Wednesday, July 23rd, Millennium Restaurant will no longer offer imported bottled mineral water. We are very excited to introduce this system to the guests of our restaurant and hope you will enjoy San Francisco tap water safer & more delicious than ever! A charge of *$1/per seated guests affords an endless supply of fresh carbon & UV filtered water served chilled, room temperature or sparkling.
Tendernob: Along with many others, we're very much looking forward to Bar Florence with the hope that Tyler Florence's fall arrival is a good one, and here we have the first signs of life at 940 Sutter Street. The former Plush Room is freshly papered up and scaffolding has been erected on the York Hotel (soon-to-be Hotel Vertigo), so it looks like the big work is underway for Florence's restaurant. But the best part might be be the entire project's motto: "Heads will spin."
· Spotted on Sutter Street: Look Who's Starting to Move In [~ESF~]
· Pre-Plywood Report: Tyler Florence, in the Plush Room [~ESF~]
· Tyler Florence Opening Restaurant in Nob Hill [~ESF~]
EMBARCADERO—This week's Scoop brings the news that after about a year, David Rosales is out at Mexico DF: "Roberto Cruz has taken over as chef. Cruz opened the restaurant with former chef David Rosales, who has decamped for his home state of Oregon. Luis Contreras, former sous chef at Fonda, the Albany restaurant where Rosales earned a Chronicle Rising Star Chef nod in 2003, is Cruz's sous chef." Rosales' biggest fan won't be happy. [Scoop]
TENDERLOIN—Russell's Room, the expansion of Bourbon & Branch into the former barbershop next door, is complete. Via Thrillist: "With space for 30 max, the candlelit parlor's done up with an alternating leather/antique mirror wall treatment, velvet-upholstered couches/chairs, and pressed-tin ceilings ... Though RR's available for private parties (where you'll customize your own drink menu), on any other night the password 'cigar' gets you in." [Thrillist]
POLK GULCH—Right on schedule, Swan Oyster Depot has reopened after its Fourth of July vacation. The stools still go up at 20 past 5 and all is right in the world. [EaterWire]
SAN FRANCISCO— Will the Quickly-Ed Jew mess ever go away? The answer, it would appear, is a simple "no": "...the restaurant chain at the center of the matter -- Quickly -- is still hovering in purgatory. You recall that one of the charges against Ed was that he tried to extort $80,000 from Quickly to help the chain's stores get permits required of franchise operations in the City. To this day, Quickly still doesn't have the permits." Oh, that crazy Ed Jew. [Bronstein at Large]
All the latest openings, big and small, get served up on a regular basis by The Dish. Spot a newcomer in your neighborhood? Send it along; operators are standing by.
1) Union Square: Officially opening tomorrow is Clock Bar. The media frenzy has been in full force for Michael Mina's cocktail bar: Thrillist and Daily Candy both wrote it up today (complete with cute puns), we took a post-plywood peek last week, and Alcademics has all the dirt on anything liquor related. And if all that weren't enough, the official website is live, complete with menu items like Lamb Tenderloin Panini and bar bites like Truffle Popcorn. 335 Powell Street, between Post and Geary, in the Westin St. Francis; (415) 354-2735; website [EaterWire]
Welcome back to the Plywood Report, your regular chronicle of the next generation of restaurants to grace our city. Spot something new? The tip line awaits. Bonus points and a goat courtesy of Willie Brown if you include photos. Goat subject to availability.
1) Polk Gulch: Let's start of this edition of the report at McTeague's Saloon, which has found a special place in our heart simply for its name. The spinoff of the Holy Grail right next door is a bit behind schedule (May-June was the initial aim), but from the above shots, it's just about ready to promote to post-plywood status. [PLYWOOD]
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POLK GULCH—We've been meaning to mention this for a while now, but we should note that the iconic Swan Oyster Depot is in the midst of its annual Fourth of July vacation. The storefront is completely papered up, which suggests that they might be sprucing up the interior. The hiatus started last weekend and assuming the note on the door is to be believed, will come to a conclusion next Monday. Stay strong, SOD faithful. [EaterWire]
THE CASTRO—And now, an update from the decades-long show called The Patio Cafe: owner Les Natali is currently showing the space to prospective tenants. Says Natali in BAR: "We're looking for a restaurant operator with a Mel's Diner type of menu – reasonably-priced, satisfying food that everyone can enjoy and visit often. And it has an outdoor patio dining area." [BAR]
With the chef and ownership situations finally sorted out at Cortez, Sir Bauer is overdue for a revisit, and coming off his 2.5-star '06 review, MB finds a pleasant surprise with Jenn Puccio at the helm: 
Comments
We've heard rumblings of this before, and now 
Nob Hill: For the time being, there's not much else new to say on the health care 
EMBARCADERO—This week's 
POLK GULCH—Right on 
POLK GULCH—We've been meaning to mention this for a while now, but we should note that the iconic Swan Oyster Depot is in the midst of its annual Fourth of July vacation. The storefront is completely papered up, which suggests that they might be sprucing up the interior. The hiatus started last weekend and assuming the note on the door is to be believed, will come to a conclusion next Monday. Stay strong, SOD faithful. [EaterWire]
