This is The Gatekeepers, where Eater roams the city to meet the fine men and women standing between you and some of your favorite impossible-to-get tables.

Jennifer Yin, 3/27/08
Surely one of the more accessible Michelin stars in town, One Market is in the midst of a comeback of sorts. As pointed out by Michael Bauer in his recent 3.5-star update of One Market, the Embarcadero restaurant has experienced its ups and downs in the 14 years since Bradley Ogden first opened it. Now with Mark Dommen in the kitchen, it's safe to say that a rejuvenation is in full swing, one capped off by the splashy Michelin star last fall. With both lunch and dinner being prized attractions, keeping things under control in the front of such a big house is no small task; just ask Larry Bouchard.
Larry Bouchard, General Manager & Partner at One Market: Depending on the configuration of the tables, between 120 and 150 [seats]. My favorite tables are those with the dead-on views of the Ferry Building clock tower at night when it's lit-up like a mini Big Ben. 8 PM on a Saturday night. What's the wait for a table? Rarely more than thirty minutes. We're a big restaurant so someone's always going when someone else is coming.

CENTRAL COAST—Yes, the San Luis Obispo area is a bit out of our coverage area, but the home turf of Bradley Ogden and the