All stories about "Chez Panisse"
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Monday, April 21, 2008
EaterWire: Bouchon on Hiatus, World's 50 Best Eateries, Free Food From BART
YOUNTVILLE—Up in Kellertown, Bouchon begins its ten-day sabbatical today, which means that diners who once balked at the portable bathrooms need not worry anymore (though we liked the look, personally). The cause of the hiatus is the Bouchon kitchen expansion, and the restaurant is expected to reopen for dinner service next Thursday, May 1st. In the meantime, reservations are still being accepted online. [EaterWire]
BAY AREA—Speaking of His Highness Keller, Restaurant Magazine has released its annual list of the 50 best restaurants in the world. Once again, El Bulli took top honors, and The French Laundry (#5) managed a spot in the top five, followed closely by its NYC offshoot, Per Se (#6). The only other American entry west of Chicago? Put your hands together for Chez Panisse, at #37. [Bloomberg]
More Wire: Free Coffee, BART, and Made-Up Holidays >>
Friday, April 4, 2008
Tuesday, March 25, 2008
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
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Chez Panisse & Modernity
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An article in the Stanford newspaper discusses Chez Panisse and its modernity from an academic standpoint. Once you get past the ivory tower lingo, it's an interesting piece on the modern nature of Alice Waters' movement: "Slow Food could only exist as they do within the context of modernity — while they represent an objection to the modern status quo, they also rely on it as a foil to which they can be the 'other.' Their position of rejecting manufactured food exhibits a fundamental awareness of exactly what they are rejecting." Our food for thought: when/if CP and Slow Food cross over into elitist territory—as they've been accused at times—do they still play the aforementioned role of the "other"? [The Stanford Daily]
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
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Sorry, Alice
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Once upon a time, no one passed up the opportunity to work at the likes of Chez Panisse, but thanks to all types of soaring costs, more and more out-of-town industry folk might be steering clear of the Bay in favor of other, developing West Coast towns: "Marco Shaw of Fife was on his way to Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif., and living in an overpriced, overcrowded house when the lure of Portland's remarkable culinary scene managed to outshine the chance to work at Alice Waters' legendary restaurant. He thought Portland would be a temporary detour on his way to the high altar of American cooking, but he never left town." [OregonLive]
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
Friday, January 18, 2008
Thursday, January 17, 2008
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Bauer Chronicles
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MB knows how to get the locals riled up, as he takes a cue from Bourdain and brings up the age-old question of whether Chez Panisse is overrated: "I can understand both points of view. The food served here is straightforward. In many regards, it's not a "real" restaurant because it serves only one menu a night ... What sets Chez Panisse apart—still—is the quality of the ingredients." The argument is nothing new, but it's always fun to see the Waters zealots pop up in the comments. [Between Meals]
Friday, January 11, 2008
Week in Reviews Blog Edition: L'Osteria, Pauline's & More
We don't do our own reviews per se here at Eater, but we hear there are plenty of local bloggers that do. Know a blog that should be on our radar? Do share.
7x7's Robin Rinaldi finds a loophole in the wait for a table at the tiny L'Osteria del Forno, and then discovers the place to be a diamond in the roughness of North Beach: "One hour turned to two, which turned to three. Still L'Osteria stayed quiet while we ate and drank and talked and drank some more and ate still more. Outside, as the late afternoon light slanted on the North Beach sidewalks, I could have sworn I'd just returned from a long Italian vacation instead of merely a long lunch." [B+B]
The latest installment of Pizza Fridays takes to the northern Mission, where MB declares Pauline's Pizza: "What other place offers Meyer lemon sauce that gets slathered on the pie along with goat cheese and greens? With its crispy chewy crust with a dusting of cornmeal for extra flavor, Pauline's sets the standards for this style of pizza." [BauerBlog]
Heresy at Chez Panisse and More Week in Reviewage, Coming Up >>
Monday, January 7, 2008
Monday, December 10, 2007
Friday, December 7, 2007
EaterWire: Buck Tavern Bucking Your Way Soon
SOMA—Fans of The Gallery Lounge and nearby DaDa will be happy to know that Michael Gouddou—the man behind the two aforementioned bars—has a third SoMa project in his sights, this time on the outer fringes of the hood, at 1655 Market (across from Zuni and CAV). The name of his next endeavor—Buck Tavern—doesn't quite lend the same ... artsy sophistication as those prior (it could be the name of a porn star, even), but we're told it's going to be a lower key, casual beer place with pub grub options. [EaterWire]
OAKLAND—On Sunday from noon to 1pm, Jack London Square will host a special crab festival, according to BellyFull. Crabbers will sell Dungeness from the back of their boats and there will be a talk on sustainable fishing. But that's not all: "For an even more delicious time, Chef Tamar Adler of Berkeley's Chez Panisse will do a crab cooking demonstration. And for a dose of zaniness, there will even be crab races on a custom-built racing track." All that in an hour? [BellyFull]
CITY-WIDE—It's well-known that San Francisco doesn't require public displays of health inspections like LA, but SFist sheds some light on the game of cat and mice: "The little card with a numerical score of the most recent inspection is not required to be on public display. However, the complementary Inspection Report must be posted in an obvious place as you walk in. Based on what we've seen, compliance with this public notice requirement might not be fully at 100% yet." [SFist]
[Photo courtesy]
Monday, December 3, 2007
Thursday, November 29, 2007
WSJ: Ameya Money Went to Waters, Not Slow Food
The saga surrounding Alice Waters' involvement in the controversial Ameya Preserve housing project continues. Two weeks ago, the Wall Street Journal reported that Waters—who supports the purchase of the development's $2.3 million homes in a town where the average pricetag is $150K to the point that she'll cook a gourmet meal for anyone who buys a new house—chalked up her involvement to a substantial ($500,000) donation to the Slow Food Nation by the Ameya Preserve. Today, the WSJ issued a correction saying that most of the money didn't actually go to Slow Food:
Wade Dokken, a developer of the Ameya Preserve housing development in Paradise Valley, Mont., paid $100,000 to Slow Food Nation, a nonprofit organization founded by San Francisco Bay area restaurateur Alice Waters in exchange for her help in guiding plans for a cooking school on the property. Mr. Dokken would pay an additional $400,000 directly to Ms. Waters and not Slow Food Nation for additional consulting services under terms of an unsigned contract. Based on erroneous information provided by Mr. Dokken and Ms. Waters, a Nov. 16 Weekend Journal article on new "politically correct" developments incorrectly said that Mr. Dokken pledged $500,000 to Slow Food Nation in exchange for Ms. Waters's participation.
The reason these revelations continue to be a source of disappointment is because Waters is our local heroine of sorts. Sure, most big-name chefs go corporate in some form at some point, but the reason Chez Panisse is special—especially here in the Bay—is precisely because it isn't mired in the muck of money. From local farmers to local diners, Waters represents (present tense) the essence of an egalitarian community; to sell out for a housing development in Montana of all places—and an elitist one at that—is just, well, sad.
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Corrections & Amplifications [WSJ]
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Politically Correct Developments [WSJ]
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Alice Waters Knows How to Return a Favor [~ESF~]
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Alice Waters' Involvement in Montana Housing Development: Slightly Confusing [~ESF~]
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Wednesday, November 7, 2007
Friday, November 2, 2007
Why Does Everyone Hate Alice Waters?
Earlier this week, we discussed a possible reason for Alice Waters' questionable involvement in a Montana housing project—which interestingly enough, has not yet been addressed by the her camp. Since then, the comments field at Tigers & Strawberries has pretty much exploded, and a surprising majority of the sentiment has been anti-Waters. To wit:
The problem that I have with Alice Waters is not that I think she's elitist, it's that it seems as though everything she says is infused with a mild air of eau de sanctimony. (She also reminds me of those people who drive you up a wall because they're so beatific.) It' not something I could easily explain, but reading the NYT piece and the Salon article, I wanted to scream. It's not a question of her message, it's just something about her that just rubs me the wrong way.
Even here in the Bay Area, where residents have been known to embrace and defend local heroes no matter what (cough cough Barry Bonds), an Alice Waters discussion is just as likely to warrant eye-rolls as raves.
So we ask you, what's wrong with Alice Waters? It can't just be the beatific pontification, right? Because if there's a place that loves pontification, it's got to be San Francisco. Discuss.
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Is Alice Waters an Elitist Food Snob? [Tigers & Strawberries]
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Alice Waters Knows How to Return a Favor [~ESF~]
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Alice Waters' Involvement in Montana Housing Development: Slightly Confusing [~ESF~]
[Photo courtesy]
Wednesday, October 31, 2007
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
Alice Waters Knows How to Return a Favor
In the wake of last week's perplexing revelations that Alice Waters has aligned herself with a controversial, "elitist" Montana housing project comes a possible explanation for the Chez Panisse founder's involvement. To recap, Waters came under fire on The Ethicurean because the new gated community—in which her new culinary school will open—is promising a private gourmet meal by Waters with the purchase of a $2.3 million home. Mind you, the average price tag for a home in the small Montana community is $150,000.
And now, some detective work, from Tigers & Strawberries:
I think I may have figured out how she got involved with the Ameya Preserve project, though ... back in May on Michael Bauer' blog, Between Meals, there was a post announcing Alice Waters' involvement in Carlo Petrini's 2008 Slow Food Nation expo in San Francisco. The event promises to be fascinating, and full of food and fun and all that good stuff, but what I found most interesting was the mention, down near the end of the post, that the first major donation to Slow Food Nation was "a $500,000 gift from the Ameya Preserve in Montana, which is an 11,000-acre plot of sustainable land."
Ah, the blurry ethical lines of means and ends.
Is Waters justified in lending her name and support to a controversial community-fracturing project if it means a generous donation to a good cause? And is this better or worse than Thomas Keller's
frozen food schemes?
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Is Alice Waters an Elitist Food Snob? [Tigers & Strawberries]
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Alice Waters' Involvement in Montana Housing Development: Slightly Confusing [~ESF~]
[Photo courtesy]
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Alice Waters' Involvement in Montana Housing Development: Slightly Confusing
It's no secret that Alice Waters is the closest thing the Bay Area—nay, the food world—has to a goddess, but a rather troubling article on The Ethicurean reveals that Waters has (quite strongly) aligned herself with a gated community development in Montana called the Ameya Preserve:
Here’s where Alice Waters comes into the picture. All of the current advertising for the Ameya Preserve — including the 2007 Neiman Marcus Christmas Catalog — trumpets her involvement. Alice may or may not be an elitist in person, but she has aligned herself with a developer and a project that is openly and unabashedly elitist.
The Christmas Catalog promises that Alice herself will cook your dinner if you buy a 10-acre site. The price tag: $2.3 million, in an area where the average home price is around $150,000 and the median income hovers just below $40,000.
Waters may have been attracted to the project because she'll be opening a culinary school there and the Ameya Preserve touts itself as a green project with a local farm. But as the article points out, the $2.3 million-homeowners won't be doing the farming themselves; zoo-like "resident farmers" will. The nearby town is up in arms about the new deluge of "second homes," saying it will divide a community (as gated communities do by definition, we suppose). In the end, the elitist development appears to goes against the community-building for which Waters has always stood, thus leading to the obvious question: why
is she involved? Is there anything less "Chez Panissey" than a celebrity chef specially cooking a meal for someone who buys a $2.3 million estate in a town of $150,000 homes?
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Why is Alice Waters involved with the Ameya Preserve in Montana? [The Ethicurean]
Anyone with thoughts, explanations or theories is encouraged to share, either in the comments field or via email.
Monday, October 22, 2007
Reactions to the Michelin Stars
Like 'em or not, the Michelin stars always cause a buzz, especially in a place that loves its restaurants like San Francisco. Unfortunately for those of you wanting to make a big deal about something this year, not much really changed from last year's inaugural edition. The only movement among San Francisco restaurants was in the one-star category, where bushi-tei bowed out. Ame, Coi and Cortez all joined the club, but in a year devoid of last year's uproar, the restaurant probably garnering the most quizzical looks is One Market.
But that doesn't mean people can't still whine about the guide! In that vein, here is what the Bay Area is saying. (And if you're wondering Michael Bauer's thoughts, well, you'll just have to wait until tomorrow, because he already used up his daily blog entry talking about Vegas or something.)
1) Chef Christopher Kostow of two-star recipient Chez TJ, who was asleep when he got Director Naret's call this morning: "I was completely speechless, I was completely surprised ... I just freaked out." [SJMN]
2) SFGate Community Member mgescuro: "I remember the uproar last year about the Michelin ratings "screwing up" some of the top restaurants in the region -- much the same way Michelin "screwed up" the NYC restaurants when they were initially reviewed. I'm glad to see a few more restaurants getting a star. One surprise... One Market.... REALLY??? Has the food been getting better or something??" [Chron]
"Mina gets 2 stars, but Gary Danko, Chez Panisse and The Ritz only get 1 star. That's just wrong!" >>
Friday, October 19, 2007
Week in Reviews Blog Edition: Chez Panisse, Farina, Bar Bambino and MORE!
It's Friday and that means it's time to take a look at the wonderful world of blog reviews. Know a restaurant-related blog that should be on our radar? Let us know, would you?

[Photo: Flickr/fuzuoko]
1) Yes, House & Garden has a blog, and that blog made its semi-annual appearance at Chez Panisse. But do regulars ever get bored at CP? Hardly:
You never know what the hell is going to pop on the Chez Panisse menu, which is one of the things we love about it. This time the surprise item was beef marrow bones roasted in the wood oven. The marrow bones were worthy of Fergus Henderson.
Plus, it's always entertaining to see East Coasters that don't "believe in salads" express amazement at simple salad that actually has flavor. [
Dining Out]
Post-Jump: Battle of New Mission Italians, Bauer Pizza Fridays and MORE >>
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
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Condé Nast Discovers California
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A three part series by Condé Nast Traveler's blog sheds precious Manhattan light on the following Bay Area "phenomena": Chez Panisse, the Ferry Building, organic produce, burritos and Thomas Keller. Adjust your calendars accordingly. [the Materialist]
The Critics: Please Commence Your Michelin Speculation
Next week, the 2008 San Francisco/Bay Area Michelin Guide will be released. While the impact and relevance of the French guide are questionable here in California, there's no denying that at the very least, the little red book provides the fodder for much debate among chefs and diners alike. Looking at last year's rankings, the Bay's restaurants seemed to fall victim to some type of French sensibility apparently absent outside of Yountville. To recap, Thomas Keller's French Laundry, predictably, was the lone recipient of the hallowed trio, an eclectic quartet nabbed a pair of stars, all while the best non-Keller restaurant in the state, Chez Panisse, received a lone star, along with 23 others.
This year's storylines:
1) The most outcry last year involved Chez Panisse and Gary Danko, Zagat's top-rated restaurant for the past six years running. Will either make the jump to two stars?
2) Also surprised/disappointed with a lone star were French stalwarts La Folie and Fleur de Lys, who are pretty much designed to win Michelin stars.
3) Manresa and Cyrus seem to be the only shots to join Keller in the three-star club, but as Bauer pointed out last year, it's virtually impossible to put someone else on equal grounds as The French Laundry.
Newcomers and Potential Losers, right this way >>
Thursday, October 11, 2007