This is Hangover Observations, where we share our thoughts on last night, the night that was.
Last night, superstar chefs from near and far rubbed elbows with fans and other charity-minded folk at Share Our Strength's 17th annual Taste of the Nation. With all proceeds going straight to SOS, the sold-out $250/ticket event was held at the Acme Chophouse, and the way the Giants' season is going, it was likely the biggest assembly of talent that will grace the building all year, and for a good cause at that. The entire shindig was graciously hosted by Traci Des Jardins, who pretty much led the way in bringing all types of big names on board. A cocktail/hors d'oeuvres reception kicked off the event with a silent auction, followed by a live auction and a five-course menu prepared by Des Jardins, Michael Symon, Chris Cosentino, Gavin Kaysen (Cafe Boulud), and Elizabeth Falkner. Here then, some observations:
1) Prior to the event, we received more than a few emails spotting best buds Symon and Cosentino cavorting all about town on Saturday, from the farmers' market to a romantic sunset stroll down in Kuletoville. For the evening affair, Cosentino roasted an entire goat.
2) Notable news of the night: anticipated Master of Ceremonies Tyler Florence backed out at the last second, leaving the event charity event sans a true replacement (dude, it's charity) and reinforcing our working theory that Florence is, well, really more of a call girl.
As far as new restaurant concepts in San Francisco go, Orson is, simply put, a unique proposition. Elizabeth Falkner certainly has the cache and talent to pull off a concept as flashy, ambitious and, well, "un-San Franciscan" as Orson. It's a restaurant that could possibly make or break a new trend in the city, and for this reason alone, its progress—and looming reviews—are very noteworthy. Now open for about a month, Orson is nearing the point in the restaurant lifetime when things take a bump for the serious, as the opening kinks should make way for prepping for The Bauer. So, how did Month #1 go down on Fourth Street? To the opinions:
Good News: "I think what Elizabeth is doing at Orson is thoughtful and purposeful innovation that results in good food and a fun dining experience ... Bottom line: Elizabeth is a chef whose creative sensibility extends beyond what she cooks and encompasses all of the tactile, visual, and sensual elements of dining. Orson is a dream come true for her - a forum to express half a lifetime spent learning her trade in the restaurant business. I promise this place will rattle your expectations." [Traci Des Jardins]
Bad News: "We liked the dramatic space and could see how it would be very electric with a full house. On this Tuesday night, it would be only half filled by the time we left (7:30). Our waitress was efficient, but felt at times imposing. She explained multiple times that the concept was 'small plates' and that we would want to order 3-5 items per person. Though the restaurant was practically empty, we felt rushed. She kept returning every few minutes to ask if we made any additional decisions, implying that we may not have ordered enough.....and again, reiterating that our orders would only be about '3 ounces' and that the portions were on the small side." [Chowhound]
Over the weekend, the first annual Pebble Beach Food and Wine Festival was held, and tickets to the picturesque seaside shindig were fetching up to $5K. Along with mega-name attendees like Thomas Keller, Tom Colicchio, Ming Tsai, Elizabeth Falkner, Gary Danko, Hubert Keller, Charles Phan, and Jacques Pepin (to name just a few), Eater LA was on hand for some first-handaccounts—including some candid shots of Father Keller (pictured, right). Please do head down to Eater LA for a full recap later today (complete with all your favorite Top Cheffers), but until then, kindly note that the place to be was the wine room, Iron Chef Morimoto is a master on the golf course and Big TK couldn't get a table at his own event. For now, we just have to point out the Chronicle's clever juxtaposition of quotes from the super chefs and their (rich) super stalkers fans:
Super Chefs: "[Thomas] Keller took all the attention in stride, but acknowledged that 'the groupie fan thing is sort of absurd.'"
Super Fans: "'I just want to shake your hand,' said 20-year-old Joshua Berman [to Keller], a Providence, R.I., culinary school student who traveled across the country to volunteer at the event and be in the shadow of his heroes."
On April 6th at her Acme Chophouse, Traci Des Jardins will host Share Our Strength's 17th annual Taste of the Nation, and the industry's heavy-hitters—and some television personalities—will be out in force. General admission tickets cost $250, but 100% of the proceeds go directly to Share Our Strength. Dinner will be prepared by Des Jardins and her merry band of Next Iron Chef contestants: Michael Symon (Cleveland's Lola/Lolita), Chris Cosentino (Incanto), and Gavin Kaysen (NYC's Café Boulud), with Elizabeth Falkner handling dessert. Also, a veritable cornucopia of chefs and sommeliers from local big names (Absinthe, Coi, A16, Spruce et al.) will put on the hors d'oeuvres reception and wine program, respectively. On the other side of the house, Tyler Florence will reclaim his mantle as Master of Ceremonies. Here's the complete run-down on the event:
Gastronomie chimes in Orson and wonders if SF will actually embrace it, confronting the molecular elephant in the room: "Ours has long been a culture of ingredient-driven food, and with good reason -- just stop in at any Farmer's Market and you can see why. But in that process, we've effectively denied our restaurant kitchens the opportunity to develop and cultivate the use of creative techniques, styles, and flavors. I think back to the wonderful and memorable Smoked Yogurt that accompanied our chocolate cake at Coi, and how it disappeared not long after our meal there because it was "too different". And yes, while I know that Winterland's location was cursed, it's still unfortunate that they closed SO quickly...How about the dishes that Daniel Humm was turning out at Campton Place? How could we have let a creative mind of his caliber run off to New York?" [G'nomie]
You need not look any further than the catwalk at Orson to realize that the third restaurant from Elizabeth Falkner is, in many ways, the culmination of an awful lot of creativity. Falkner, in conjunction with Sabrina Riddle, opened the new SoMa hotspot this week, and given the impressive warehouse chic space, we decided—with the help of photog Jennifer Yin—to bust out all the stops and roll out a mega-gallery edition of Eater Inside. The two-story, 10,000 square-foot space was designed entirely by Falkner and Riddle, with the focal point probably being the 30-seat oval marble bar. Dining areas and lounges are scattered throughout, so instead of rattling on about Orson, we'll let the photos do the talking. Enjoy.
Now, we love Daily Candy as much as (ahem) the next guy, but the following email that arrived in the Eater Inbox late yesterday has brought operations here at Eater HQ to a grinding halt, thanks to a mix of amusement and well, befuddlement. Anyway, the email in question:
thanks for the orson coverage today, attended the great opening last night and it was very much the festive gathering. i think we are in for a real special place to enjoy a cocktail and some fun food, just what south of market needed.
my question, was it just me or was everyone a little puzzled with the opening paragraph from the orson item yesterday in daily candy? i have reread several times and even after attending last night it just does not make sense, am i missing something?
At this point, a glance at the Daily Candy briefing on Orson is only appropriate, so here's the paragraph in question, and for some "context," the following paragraph as well: "Mom shares only her R-rated sexcapades" >>
With a soft opening under its belt and a menu now available for your perusal (for the courageous, there's butterfish), resy lines are officially open for Elizabeth Falkner's Orson. The latest from the resy front: no reservations are available for tonight, though tomorrow night is fairly open, for the time being. (415) 777-1508 [EaterWire, Thrillist]
This is Hangover Observations, where we share our thoughts on last night, the night that was.
1) Upon witnessing Elizabeth Falkner climb up on the bar for an impromptu swordfight to ring in her new restaurant, we couldn't help but wonder how much better the Epic/Waterbar opening could have been had Pat Kuleto done the same thing.
2) Just a few more of the countless theatrics at the Orson soft opening last night: an employee fashion show on the second-floor catwalk, a live rock band playing Def Leppard, topless female servers covered in chocolate, foie gras chocolate truffles and quite possibly the best thing ever: cured meat on clothespins.
SOMA—Even though Elizabeth Falkner stopped by the festivities in South Beach over the weekend (including among others, Paula Deen's Poker Party, of all places), this week will finally see the unveiling of Orson. The ambitious and much-anticipated "Edgy California Cuisine" project by Falkner and Sabrina Riddle will toss a soft opening affair tonight, and will officially debut tomorrow night (Tuesday). Perhaps even more importantly, the reservation lines will open tomorrow as well, so if you're stuck at a desk all day filling out TPS reports, it might a good idea to try to score some seats, if there are even any left. More info on Orson, like the resy hotline number, can be had at the official site. [EaterWire Inbox]
SOMA—This week's Tablehopper reported rumors of a possible February 26th debut for Elizabeth Falkner's Orson, and it now looks like that week will definitely see some degree of action down on Fourth Street, with the 26th slated for a soft opener. In the meantime, the Orson website has been revamped, complete with menu highlights (Paella with squid ink gel; Samosas, raita and chutney sorbet) and the following ominous announcement: "Orson is coming very soon." [EaterWire]
NAPA—We've got a couple reports from the Taylor's Automatic Refresher grand opening in the Oxbow Public Market earlier today. We'll have much more from the Taylor's front early next week, but in the meantime, here's a teaser on today's specials: Pulled Pork Sandwich, Baked Potato Soup, Blueberry Milkshake. [EaterWire Inbox]
TELEVISION—We already know that the new season of Top Chef—debuting on March 12—features a quartet of local chefs, but early previews already have Myth Cafe's rep cast as the villain: "This year's Hung is obviously Ryan, a San Francisco-based chef of such surpassing smugness that we are already rooting against him. (He's handsome, too, the pisher.)" [Cutlets, previously]
On the heels of our last update from the Orson front, we now have word of a pair of menu items on tap for Elizabeth Falkner's much-anticipated "edgy California cuisine" down on Fourth. And they certainly qualify as edgy: Butterfish Brulee with caviar and radish, and the Pigwich, a maple-bacon ice cream sandwich. [EaterWire]
Since we last formally checked in with Elizabeth Falkner's Orson back in the late fall, the build-out is well underway on Fourth Street. The newly-painted exterior now looks presentable, walls are up, and more details—some new, some old—continue to slip out regarding the restaurant. In any event, this is pretty much the pitch around town:
With a large bar, a two-story wine tower and 150 seats situated in a sexy, living room atmosphere, it will feature edgy California cuisine ranging from wood fired pizzas and charcuterie to multiple courses and shared plates that feature her classic level of experimentation and artistry that nods to the science lab without becoming surreal.
Intrigued? The City is notoriously difficult to win over when it comes to anything with the word "science" near it, but Falkner has (justifiably) achieved celebrity chef status and is a local favorite (a private sort of greatness, even). Some interior plywood follows: Care for a look inside Orson? Click this way, please >>
How's about a bit of AM plywood to get the Friday rolling? The Plywood Report is your regular, all-encompassing chronicle of the next generation of restaurants to grace our fair city. See some plywood going up in your neighborhood? Do let us know; bonus points and a Tyler Florence framed portrait if you include photos (portrait subject to availability).
1) SoMa: Down by the intersection of Bryant and Fourth, let's not forget about Elizabeth Falkner's Orson. As seen by the live (!) action shot above, the once-dingy facade at 508 Fourth Street recently got a nifty little paint job. The interior remains a ways off, but the Falkner project is definitely coming along. [PLYWOOD]
2) Financial District: Emails a tipster, "In the 333 Bush building, where Kelly's used to be (and there was a very short lived deli from NY), there is now paper up and sometimes people working in there. This part of Trinity is the upscale junk food triangle, with a Bistro Burger, Escape from NY, and some upscale hot dog place. Curious what is going in next." Anyone? [Eater Inbox]
3) Berkeley: 'Twas only a matter of time before wine bars got creative. From a tipster: "Not sure if this is new or not, but I just walked by "Taste" in Berkeley, which had been closed for 'remodeling. It now has a new sign up that says 'Mint Leaf - Indian Wine Bar and Restaurant.' That's one hell of a remodeling job ... Still closed though." [Eater Inbox]
It's time for another installment of the Plywood Report, your regular chronicle of the next generation of restaurants to hit San Francisco. See some plywood and/or construction in your neighborhood? Drop us a tip. Bonus points and a free Yelp listing if you include photos.
1) Pacific Heights: Steps away from the suddenly-booming Fillmore Street, Charles Phan's Out the Door continues to make significant progress in its cavernous space on Bush. Assuming this branch will riff off the Westfield design, it looks like the ordering counter is up front with the kitchen behind it. At this point, it's hard to discern much else, but are we (not) looking at another hidden dining room? The date remains early spring "at best." [PLYWOOD]
2) SoMa: A tipster sends along ponderings at the future site of the Lava Lounge: "... at 527 Bryant (according to Yelp and Google, that's where Eagle's Drift-In SOMA used to be, but that's before my time.) Anyway, the front window is now all covered with white paper and I got a glimpse inside (no pictures, sorry.) It looks like almost finished bar renovation with very nice looking wooden bar and some tables. Is this old news? Do you guys know what's going in that spot?" [Eater Inbox]
A wise man once said that the news goes on for 24 hours a day. So does EaterWire. Your news items, gossip, sightings, Rosebuds and the like to sf@eater.com.
HAYES VALLEY—Elizabeth Falkner has a new number two at her Xanadu. On the ninth day of December, sous chef William Pilz will be promoted to Chef de Cuisine duties at Citizen Cake. Pilz has already done time with several big-name locals, including Laurent Gras, David Kinch and Ron Siegel. [EaterWire Inbox]
OIL SPILLERY—Seriously, the powers above really don't want this crab season to happen, as the opening of crab season has been delayed yet again. Mind you, this recent delay wasn't caused by anything oily, but bad weather: The fishermen want to go out - this is their livelihood, this is how they make their money; the concern is no longer on the safety of the crab - it's the safety of the crabbers. The problem is weather - it's going to be rough out there ... The forecast is rough seas and strong winds in the crab fishing areas. So the crab fishermen are going to wait for proper conditions." Like flies to wanton boys are we to the gods. [ABC]
JACKSON SQUARE—On a serious note, an issue that we're actually quite passionate about is the tragic situation in Darfur, so we're delighted to encourage folks to stop by Frisson next Wednesday evening for a Darfur fundraiser. Organized by non-profit org Care Through Action and the Frisson folks, the all-inclusive dinner costs $200 and kicks off at 7pm. If dinner happens to be out of your price range, a $25 cocktail reception follows at 9pm. Have a couple drinks, do something for a good cause, please. [SFist]
You can't buy a bag of peanuts in this town without someone writing a blog post about you. Over the weekend, a reader sent word—and the above photo—of action down at Orson, the highly-anticipated, "edgy" follow-up to Citizens Cake and Cupcake by Elizabeth Falkner and Sabrina Riddle. Naturally, the Eater Investigative Staff was dispatched immediately to 4th Street, where they not only found the aforementioned call to arms, but also some nifty shots of what is shaping up to be quite the SoMa version of Xanadu:
The autumnal months are a busy time for The Dish, your source for the latest unveilings around town. Notice a restaurant that recently debuted? We accept tips.
1) Sketch: After being shuttered for nearly a month, Berkeley ice cream mecca Sketch has reopened with a flurry of improvements, according to Chowhound. Among the upgrades: soft serve machines for the gelato, cones, toppings, outdoor umbrellas and more. Says a 'hound: "I'm so happy. It was worth the wait." Sugar. Highs. 1809 4th St, between Hearst Ave & Virginia St, Berkeley, (510) 665-5650 [CH]
2) That Takes the Cake: While San Francisco hasn't taken the gourmet cupcake craze to the point of NYC and LA—the great Ms. Falkner aside—there remains a solid market for cupcakes ... in the Marina of course. Thus have we That Takes the Cake. From Daily Candy: "Owner Saralynn Reece takes a homemade, just-like-Mom's approach to the eight rotating flavors she serves daily. Hand-frosted, craveable creations include Gentlemen Prefer Reds (red velvet cake with a dollop of cream cheese frosting), Sleepless in SF (chocolate buttermilk cake with coffee buttercream), and Snow Balls (coconut-and-almond cake with cream cheese frosting and coconut flakes)." 2271 Union Street, between Fillmore and Steiner Streets, Cow Hollow, 415-567-8050 [Daily Candy]
The autumn months always bring a deluge of restaurant debuts, but predicting the actual opening dates for said restaurants is a bit like hitting a moving target. Hence, Fall Tracking Report, your source for the latest intel on when you should start trying to score that resy.
Orson, 508 Fourth Street, SoMa
Initial Debut Projection: September 2007 Current Debut Projection: Late December 2007 Odds, On Time Arrival: 30 to 1 Eater Projected Opening Date: 1/18/07
A plywood vet already, little doubt remains that Orson will be a splashy newcomer, once it finally arrives, that is. Ground was broken back in January on Elizabeth Falkner's third endeavor, but it's been slow-going since then. The sluggish pace may be partly attributable to the magnitude and precision involved in the project; just looking at the interior space—high ceilings, staircases, an industrial-lounge feel—conveys the large scope of Falkner's latest Orson Welles tribute. Zack|de Vito Architecture (Globe, Manresa, among others) is handling the job, and given Falkner's passion for all things artistic, it's safe to say she's probably involved in the architectural side of things as well. Original opening was set for early fall, but given the state of things down on Fourth Street (no signage, etc), not mention the extreme detail and creativity that will go into Orson, this one seems a ways off. Winter tracking report, anyone?
This here is the Plywood Report, your regular, all-encompassing source for the next generation of San Francisco restaurants still in various stages of construction. From splashy, big-name endeavors to smaller remodelings, we've got you covered. See something a-brewing in your neighborhood? Drop us a line. Also: bonus points and a gold star sticker if you include photos.
Love the looks of that oven. Very Chez Panisse/Zuni.
1) SoMa: As seen above, the onetime Computer Rental space at 330 1st Street now belongs to Local Kitchen and Wine Merchant. Coming from the people behind Oola, Local will be "a wine bar and then some," doubly relying on sommelier skills of Mark Bright (formerly of Michael Mina) and an Italian tilt to local ingredients. The interior space looks extremely promising, though from the looks of things, not close to completion. Also: astute readers will catch a glimpse of what appears to be a wood-burning oven. Can anyone confirm this? [PLYWOOD]