Patricia Unterman blows the lid off Bar Jules, praising Jessica Bonecutter's small Hayes Valley restaurant as the type of place you keep hush hush: "Each night everything is buoyantly new — the menu, the wine list, the service, the walk-in crowd. Bar Jules delivers the surprises and fun of a starter restaurant. And it has a solid foundation of good cooking and a commitment to local ingredients. It is just the kind of place that restaurant insiders want to keep to themselves." [SFE]
For the second week in a row, Patricia Unterman files in from Mexico, but still finds room to gush about her odd, torrid love affair with Mexico DF, even though she's the only major restaurant critic to actually like, let alone love, the upscale FiDi Mexican restaurant: "A green ceviche of Gulf fish with tomatillos, avocado, lime, cilantro, jalapenos and onions dances on your tongue ... Only David Rosales at our own Mexico DF makes carnitas as tender and luscious as El Bajio's." [SFE, previously]
Patricia Unterman files in from three-year-old Eccolo, another example of a Chez Panisse alum branching off. This time, it's Christopher Lee, whose Berkeley restaurant adds some niceties to the standard set by Waters: "Though [Lee] shares principles with the mothership—the worship of local, seasonal and artisanal ingredients —his dishes are richer, meatier and heartier. After a meal at Eccolo, you know you have eaten. Plus, Eccolo has a bar, a real bar that serves martinis and cocktails." [SFE]
La Taqueria: a Fine "International" Option [Photo: Flickr/zipflydesign]
· The Mission, Home to a Cornucopia of International Flavors [G'skip]
· Ad Hoc's New Pastry Chef Hails From Alaska [NVR]
· Number One on 2008's List of Banished Words: Organic [ASD]
· Oversensitive People Cause Stir About Starbucks' "Skinny" Drink [yumsugar]
· Reviewing Michael Pollan's In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto [SFBG]
· ... And Discussing the Book With Pollan and Patricia Unterman Tonight [SFW]
It's a special day for the Week in Reviews, as the Examiner's Patricia Unterman releases her review on Sens a day after Meredith Brody did the same. Since Unterman and Brody are two of the more high-profile reviewers in town, it may be worthwhile to compare and contrast what the magnificent duo has to say on the Embarcadero Center's newish Med restaurant. While there's a smattering of agreement when it comes to the hits and misses of the meal, let's start off with a bit of confusion:
Brody on the setting: "There were the oddly Flintstonesian rocks punctuating the rough wood walls, the slightly surrealistic hand-holding light sconces, the big windows overlooking the Ferry Building with the Bay Bridge twinkling behind it. Upscale ski lodge was the general feeling."
Unterman on the setting (at the same restaurant, presumably): "On the escalators, the mood changes, but diners arrive at a dreamy Mediterranean fishing village ... slate floors scattered with oriental rugs; and an expansive tiled open kitchen bedecked with bowls of fruits and vegetables."
We're not quite sure if there can be two more disparate restaurant settings than Alpine ski lodge and dreamy Mediterranean fishing village—maybe an Irish taqueria?—but fortunately, there was a bit more consensus concerning the meal itself:
Patricia Unterman takes the show to Woodward's Garden, where the cozy ambiance and personal attention offset the gritty freeway underpass: "The closer I get to the cooks, the growers, the producers of the food I eat, the happier I am. At Woodward’s Garden, I feel that immediacy. I could easily move into this room and permanently live in this couple’s created world." [SFE]
It's time for yet another round of the Week in Reviews. Michael Bauer is still recovering from his South American trip, but there's still plenty of reviews to go around, including plenty of Mediterranean ventures from the major weeklies. Let's get to it, shall we?
The bar at Palmetto [Photo: Yelp]
Leading things off, Meredith Brody is at Palmetto, where she shares some instantly memorable lines that have, well, nothing to do with Chef Andy Kitko's Union Street newbie:
We decline the first two tables offered to us — the little glass box that sits on the sidewalk is not only empty but cold, and there are laborers working outsideWe're not quite sure who uses the word "laborers" anymore, but one thing is crystal clear: thou shalt not sit Ms. Brody near common plebians, you hear? As for Palmetto itself, Kitko's modern Mediterranean fare predictably impresses (though less so at lunch), with the delicious, yet slightly-gimmicky blue-foot chicken quickly becoming the second-most famous poultry dish in town behind one Zuni Cafe's. [SFW]
Patricia Unterman, the first major reviewer to take a crack at A16's new sister restaurant SPQR, emits nothing but praise in a glowing review bordering on press release: "Dishes at SPQR are attractively served on earth-toned Heathware, the mid-century ceramic company from Sausalito. All are generously portioned and easily shared, which means that the food bill stays refreshingly modest." [SFE]
Patricia Unterman takes her show to Osaka, Japan and has a harsh return to the Bay: "At home, food suddenly tasted too sweet, salty and sour. I realized that I had been eating a mid-range palate of flavors with very little oil and fat, and drinking a wine, sake, whose highest attributes are balance, smoothness and a delicate aroma evocative of pure water. In comparison, Western food and drink felt like a sensual assault." [Examiner]
Aside from Patricia Unterman's dubious proclamation of Mexico DF as "the Frontera Grill of San Francisco" (among other glowing hyperbole), reviews for the FiDi upscale Mexican joint have been subpar at best. That in mind, not even harsh reviews from Bauer and Sens prepared us for the carnage of one diner's experience. The scene: restaurant industry folk on a Saturday night, 9:15 reservation for an 8-top (made at 8pm the same night; never a good sign). The entire report is worth a read, but here are the lowlights.
1) Mexico DF's response to a running-late alert: "OK, that's fine. Your table isn't ready yet, so you're working with us just as much as we're working with you."
2) After waiting over an hour: "Around 10:30, I was beginning to wonder about how table timing was being managed...and considering that I had made my reso with a manager, and not a hostess, this was especially worrisome."
Patricia Unterman is at Spruce, and the tony newcomer suits her just fine: "It projects an aura of luxury and full service, yet still offers a hamburger and exemplary french fries — especially for those who want to pair it with a $300 cabernet." [Examiner]
The only question remaining? Just how many Michelin stars.
This week's dosage of Patricia Unterman brings us to Mexico DF, the upscale Steuart Street place earlier panned by both Josh Sens and Michael Bauer. Now, San Francisco critics outside of the Chron have a bit of a reputation for being "softies" when it comes to reviews, but Unterman's amazingly glowing review suggests that Mexico DF just might be Thomas Keller's secret Mexican undertaking. To wit:
1) Good news: "Frankly, anything on this menu thrills"
2) Better news: "...how any of my fellow reviewers could have mistaken Mexico DF's sublime carnitas, salsas, ceviches or huaraches for taco-truck fare is beyond me."
3) Great news: "Not fussy or overworked, these plates are simple, radiant and just the way I want to eat today."
4) Greater news: "When wrapped in a small, hot, freshly made corn tortilla and drizzled with one of three haunting hand-crushed salsas and maybe a spoonful of warm cactus and chayote salad ($5), well, I challenge anyone to find a better mouthful in the Bay Area."
5) Greatest news: "Mexico DF is the Frontera Grill of San Francisco."
· Mexico DF serves soulful, simple fare [Examiner]
· Even a great chef can’t quite make you love the vibe at Mexico DF [SFM]
· Mexico DF shows promise, but ultimately disappoints [Chron]
The new small-plates approach at Scott Howard has made the Jackson Square restaurant a bona-fide pleasure in Patricia Unterman's eyes: "The whole package works. A diner can feast or nibble, drink or sip, come in cocktail dress or jeans ... Scott Howard gives everyone the opportunity to eat upscale without a major financial commitment, a way to taste around to find out what you really love." [Examiner]
The Examiner's Patricia Unterman gets her upscale sushi grub on at Burlingame's Sakae Sushi & Grill: "If you want the best of Sakae, sit at the sushi bar, order sake from the heady by-the-glass list, let the chef compose the meal, and be prepared to spend at least $150. Anything less may not be worth it." [Examiner]
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