All stories about "Serpentine"

[Photo: Flickr/type.wright]

With its chef Anthony Paone now on hand full-time instead of splitting time elsewhere, Berkeley's Sea Salt gets a nice upgrade from 2.5 to three stars, even though traditional restaurant logic says that expansion is usually a bad thing:

When Sea Salt opened in 2005, it had just 85 seats. Now there are nearly 200, the interior has been spiffed up with fresh flowers and a full-service bar, and the menu has grown ... The service, like the food, has an eclectic friendly quality. It supports the neighborhood vibe, but not at the expense of professionalism. Rarely does a restaurant that gets larger actually improve the food, but with Paone watching the line, that's exactly what's happened.

With no Chron reviews today, we turn first to Paul Reidinger, the first major reviewer to take a crack at Conduit, the flashy New American in the quickly-developing northern Mission. Not only does Reidinger drop a very, very glowing review, but he compares Conduit (favorably, we might add) to some biggies in the process:

The restaurant, even in its fledgling days, already must be considered one of the premier spots on Valencia's still-burgeoning restaurant row; its peer group consists of Range, Limón, and perhaps Bar Tartine, and if only because of the extraordinary atmospherics of the interior design (the architect was Stanley Saitowitz), its sheen is brighter than theirs.

But let's not forget the appeal of chef Justin Deering's food either. The man and his staff work in an exhibition kitchen that stretches like a stage across the back of the restaurant, and the menu they're turning out is a seasonal California one, yes, like so many others, but with an emphasis on butter and cream that reminded me of Traci Des Jardins's early menus at Jardinière and of Nancy Oakes's at Boulevard.

Serpentine's warehouse chic interior [Photo: James Newman]

· Lots of New, Stylish Restaurants Opening in SoMa and Dogpatch [BauerBlog]
· San Francisco Restaurants Are Catching Up to East Bay Ones? [WSJ]
· The Music at Yoshi's SF Matches the Food Raves [CCT]
· The Story of Emily Wines, the Fifth Floor's Master Sommelier [Aspen]
· Molecular Gastronomy God Herve This Stops By the Bay [VTH]
· Frontera Fresco: "Shame Chef Bayless, Shame. Try Harder Next Time." [6x10]
· Tokyo Doesn't Exactly Embrace Its Michelin Guide Either [NYT]

The bird's eye view at Vesuvio [Photo: Flickr/WIlly Volk]

· Absinthe's Jamie Lauren Shills Cooking Spray, Has Tattoos [B+B]
· Brick Bar Bites With "Well-Coiffed Blondes" and "Sharply Dressed Men" [Chron]
· Bauer's Pizza Friday Train Rolls On Over to Firewood Cafe [BauerBlog]
· Industrial Chic, Small Plates Abound at Serpentine and South [Mapplr]
· Pairing Fish Tacos With Wine at Taylor's Refresher [Dr. Vino]
· Uh-Oh Alert: Starbucks Slashing 600 Jobs [Yahoo]
· More on the Supreme Court's GGRA-Health Care Ruling [Chron]

The Scandinavian Designs interior of Coco500 [Photo: Yelp/Aaron S]

Leading off the festivities, we have Paul Reidinger visiting Loretta Keller's Coco500, where he muses on its predecessor Bizou, the pre-ballpark days of SoMa and the interior design of the trendy Coco500:

I went in warily, full of skepticism, and was almost instantly won over, and that is about the loudest hallelujah I can sing for any restaurant, reinvented or otherwise.

Most of Coco500's magic has to do with the food and the service, it must be said. The redesign of the interior emphasizes blond wood and is reminiscent of a Scandinavian Designs store or a sauna, and while there's nothing wrong with the Danish modern look, it doesn't exactly send the most accurate subliminal signals about what sort of food to expect

· Serpentine Refuses to Serve Tomatoes, Says Tomato-Lover [CH]
· The Heavy Crown: Everyone Wants to Share Opinions on SPQR [CH]
· Hard-to-Kill Serrano's Bounces Back From Fire Damage [Yelp]
· Dissecting the Stations in a Professional Kitchen [eGullet]
· Lamenting City's Lack of Street Meat, Mature Yelp Jokes Ensue [Yelp]

FYI: Terzo's interior stayed the same size. [Photo: Yelp/Melissa W.]

In a bit of a half-hearted review, Senor Bauer revisits Terzo, the Cow Hollow restaurant that recently abandoned its small plates concept in favor of a more traditional approach. The only differences from its prior three star status? Literally just the prices and portions, says MB, which is exactly what was advertised:

On a recent Update visit, I asked our waiter about the change. He answered that many customers didn't get the concept and complained of leaving hungry.

In most cases, the dishes have remained the same. Gordon took some of the more popular items, including the grilled sea bass with garbanzo beans and romesco, and supersized them, in both quantity and price. For example, the fish - which is as delicious as I remember - went from $12 for what was a smaller piece of halibut to $28 for sea bass. While the price more than doubled, the portion looks to be about a third larger ... Diners often complain that small plates end up being more expensive, but in the case of Terzo, the traditional format requires more cash.

All news fit to run goes in EaterWire. Your tidbits, sightings, etc. to sf@eater.com.

James Newman, 12/18/07

DOGPATCH—Attention Dogpatchers and prospective diners who might enjoy going to the Dogpatch's best new restaurant: in the wake of continued requests, owner Erin Rooney and co. have decided to bite the bullet, and Serpentine is now taking reservations for both lunch and dinner service. As you were. [EaterWire]

THE PRESIDIO—A winery in the Presidio? That, and more, is very much on the way for the former army base: "The first winery to operate in a United States national park, Foggy Bridge, will open its tasting room this summer with plans to add a working winery, restaurant and cafe in the fall. It's the latest project for winemaker Daryl Groom, who very recently left mega-conglomerate Beam Wine Estates, where he was senior vice president of production and winemaking." Foggy Bridge HQ will be at the northwest end of Crissy Field, which means the stroller brigade might be gettin' a little tipsy, now that there's a new stop on the route. [Chron]

James Newman, 12/18/07

Leading the Dogpatch's charge to become the next hot neighborhood is Serpentine, the first offshoot of Mariposa Street's popular Slow Club. Serpentine's likeness to its parent is evident throughout, from the industrial interior to the no-reservations policy to Chris Kronner's menu (right down to the Prather Ranch burger). Of course, these similarities provoke yet another similarity to Slow Club: immense popularity, which means that for time being, you'll have to saddle up to the Serpentine bar (or Yield's across the street) while you wait for your non-reserved table. Questions to consider: what will be Serpentine's role in the evolution of the Dogpatch? Will it become a neighborhood favorite (say, like Slow Club) or a city-wide hot spot (a la SPQR)? Will the Serpentine brass cave and start taking reservations? And will they ever turn on the heat?

Further reading in The Dish, and at Daily Candy and Becks & Posh.

· Hour Waits, Chances Taken and Kudos Given at Serpentine [tribe.net]
· Tips For Getting Your Hands on Chris Cosentino's Boccalone [CH]
· Bavaria Vs. Austria Throwdown at Schnitzlhaus [CH]
· Are There Any Restaurants That Serve a Christmas Goose? [CH]
· In Search of That Old School Parisian Cafe [eGullet]
· The Zagat Boards Are Really Taking Off [Zagat]

First look at Westfield's Catch Isle [Photo via Married With Dinner]

· South's Luke Mangan Enjoys a Good Chef Feud [Daily Telegraph]
· Serpentine Might Be Good [B&P]
· De Afghanan Kabob House Gets Bargain Bit [Chron]
· Debating the Merits of WiFi in Restaurants [Diner's Journal]
· San Francisco Supervisors Considering Calorie Counts [KCBS]
· Three Bay Area Cities Make America's Drunkest List [SFist]

Earlier today, owner Erin Rooney declared Serpentine open for business and now we've got our hands on a copy of the opening lunch and dinner menus. So while the official site stays under construction, if you're curious as to what Slow Club's chef Chris Kronner has up his sleeve for an encore performance, do take the hop.

Restaurant opening season is in full swing, and that means it's a busy time for The Dish, your source for the all the latest and greatest openings. As usual, The Dish eagerly looks forward to your sightings.

1) Local: Today's finally the day for the much-anticipated Local, the SoMa kitchen/wine bar that many are hoping becomes a quintessential neighborhood destination. As mentioned earlier 'round these here parts, Local is the latest from chef Ola Fendert (Oola), and will offer simple comfort California-Mediterranean fare from the wood-fired oven (menu here). There are plenty of wines involved as well, with sommelier Mark Bright offering over 40 wines by the glass, not to mention a self-contained wine shop. Dinner is the only option as of now, but if all goes to plan, literally every other meal will be offered in the new year. Much more reading in the Eater Archives, Thrillist and Daily Candy. 330 First Street, between Folsom and Harrison, SoMa; (415) 777-4200 [Eater Staff]

*UPDATE 1:10PM—We've just received official word that at the last minute, Local has postponed opening once again, this time to Wednesday the 12th. Repeat: Local not open tonight. Exhale.

Quoth a reader in reaction to yesterday's post about the imminent arrival of Slow Club's Dogpatch endeavor, Serpentine: "Is it just me or does that corner signage look a lot like the one at Town Hall? Right down to the font!" Upon closer inspection, there certainly seems to be a resemblance, no? Perhaps they merely employed the same 90-degree sign design firm; besides, if you're going to "draw inspiration" from a local restaurant, Town Hall is a pretty darn good model.

But we digress. As for the actual restaurant, Serpentine is still expected to open "sometime this week." With The Dish at the ready, we'll keep you posted, natch.
· Signage Alert: Serpentine Poised to Premiere This Week [~ESF~]
· Slow Club Sequel Serpentine Due By December [~ESF~]

Since we all know that 2008 will be the year of the Dogpatch, we're happy to announce that not only do we have a signage sighting at Serpentine, but the first sequel to Slow Club will unveil as soon as this week. As it stands on the corner of 3rd and 22nd on this breezy Monday morning, Serpentine had originally hoped to open by November's close, but apparently had some hiccups with inspections. One source has it that a Wednesday debut is a strong possibility. To refresh your memory, Slow Club's Chris Kronner will be in the kitchen, so expect a similar New Am menu with a bevy of classic cocktails. Lunch and dinner will be offered in the 55-seat dining room.
· Slow Club Sequel Serpentine Due By December [~ESF~]

If everything goes to plan, the folk behind the enormously-popular Dogpatch destination Slow Club will open their second restaurant by the end of the month. Serpentine will be a ways down the road at 2495 3rd Street in a nondescript industrial brick building on the corner of 22nd and 3rd (hence the above photo of Slow Club). The place is just about complete, but health inspections and the like must be passed. Like its precursor, Serpentine will feature New American cuisine, a full bar and classic cocktails. There will be 55 seats in the dining room, plus 14 at the bar. Slow Club's Chris Kronner will take up executive chef duties at both restaurants.