
Baueriffic makes a return visit to Meadowood, where one Michelin two-star chef (Joseph Humphrey) has been replaced by another in Christopher Kostow, late of Chez TJ. And as Bauer discovers, Kostow is thriving up in Napa:
He's doing even better. Kostow has worked out all the quirks and superficial embellishments from Chez TJ and settled into the role of a seasoned, mature chef, cooking in a casually elegant environment ... White geraniums dress up the window boxes that can be seen from the dining room and the dining terrace, where tables are set with crisp linens, sparkling crystal and gleaming flatware. It's a much more refined, sophisticated stage for his immense talents.Not only is the result of Kostow's "elegant, newly found restraint" an upgrade from three to 3.5 stars, but the way the review reads, it seems like only a dessert misstep prevents Bauer from doling out those hallowed four stars in full, at least for the time being. [Chron]
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