All stories about "Thomas Keller"

HAYES VALLEY—It doesn't look good for the Subway franchise trying to weasel its way into 1680 Market Street, which is on the northside of Market between Franklin and Gough (perhaps better known as the Zuni-CAV-Espetus block). The item will once again go in front of the Planning Commission during next week's meeting, and the preliminary recommendation has been updated to Disapproval. [EaterWire, previously]

NORTH BEACH—For the first time in history, there might be a meeting between the Police Commission and Entertainment Commission, because of North Beach's rowdy behavior: "The area covered by Central Station district — which has more than 100 bars, 300 restaurants, 350 beer and wine licenses and 45 liquor stores — sees an increased crowd on the weekends when people from all across the Bay Area come to party, according to Central's police chief, Capt. James Dudley ... Punishing clubs' bartenders who overserve is difficult, Dudley said. Club owners who cooperate with police and the Entertainment Commission, however, say they're at a disadvantage." [SFE]

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It's the first weekend of May, and with both the Oxbow farm stands and Napa Farmers Market open, many will be heading up to Wine Country, but travelers should be advised that Bouchon is still closed. Originally, Thomas Keller's Yountville bistro was supposed to reopen on May Day yesterday, but as of today, the return has since been pushed back to next Wednesday, May 7th due to a variety of reasons. The main component of the remodel is the kitchen expansion, and peering in, our Yountville correspondent describes an "impressive walk-in refrig and freezer" located between the bakery and restaurant's outdoor area. Did you expect anything less than impressive from Keller?
· EaterWire: Bouchon on Hiatus [~ESF~]
· Keller Dispatch: Portable Toilets and Al Fresco Dining Come Together at Bouchon [~ESF~]
· Keller Dispatch: Behind the Bouchon Expansion [~ESF~]

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YOUNTVILLE—Up in Kellertown, Bouchon begins its ten-day sabbatical today, which means that diners who once balked at the portable bathrooms need not worry anymore (though we liked the look, personally). The cause of the hiatus is the Bouchon kitchen expansion, and the restaurant is expected to reopen for dinner service next Thursday, May 1st. In the meantime, reservations are still being accepted online. [EaterWire]

BAY AREA—Speaking of His Highness Keller, Restaurant Magazine has released its annual list of the 50 best restaurants in the world. Once again, El Bulli took top honors, and The French Laundry (#5) managed a spot in the top five, followed closely by its NYC offshoot, Per Se (#6). The only other American entry west of Chicago? Put your hands together for Chez Panisse, at #37. [Bloomberg]

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"Our bottle of red wine came. She gave us stem-less glasses — tumblers — for it. (In the Napa Valley?) She poured a sip for me to taste. Then she plunked down the bottle without pouring any more." —Frank Bruni, 3/17/08

"Stemmed glassware has been replaced by crystal tumblers, yet the meal cries out for more refined wine-glasses." —Michael Bauer, 11/26/06

Critics near and far may have been irked by Thomas Keller's decision to go super-casual at Ad Hoc and serve wine out of tumblers, but a little known fact has recently come to our attention: you can get stemware at Ad Hoc if you play your cards right. Straight from Yountville, the Land of Keller:

What is this? Stemware at ad hoc. Who knew. We were told that they have about 20 stem wine glasses. I love that the staff knows the count, so if someone requests them for their wine they can just say, "Ooh, I'm sorry we just gave out number 19 and 20." Our wine was about $125 so we were ready to drink it out of a tumbler. By the way, he poured me a taste and walked away and let us pour ourselves. At least some things haven't changed.

PS $48 dollars for a bucket of chicken, I just don't get it?

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According to a new listing on Amazon, Thomas Keller will release a new book in October of 2008. As far as we can tell, there's no further information, though its title—"Under Pressure"—has already led some to speculate that it's his long-awaited cookbook on sous vide cooking, and we're inclined to agree. For more on Thomas Keller's affinity for sous vide, we recommend Amanda Hesser's appropriately-titled 2005 article on the subject. Also, now we know why Father Keller did his cooking demo while rocking out to Queen during the Pebble Beach Fest.
· Under Pressure (Hardcover) [Amazon]
· Under Pressure [NYT]

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Remember back a few weeks ago, when our Napa correspondent shed light on "some highly dubious port-o-potty placement" at Bouchon? If you'll recall, several commenters went on record to say that despite the seemingly-questionable, remodel-induced toilet situation at Thomas Keller's bistro (more on the renovations here), the temporary toilets there are nothing short of Keller quality. Exact quote: "the French Laundry of porto-potties!" Now we have word that not everyone thinks "an outhouse" to be an appropriate toilet for a restaurant of Bouchon's caliber, and well, some people are just getting plain pissy with His Highness:

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Top Cheffer and ex-Myth Cafe honcho Ryan Scott works the room at the after-party.

Yesterday, we shared the mainstream take on the first annual Pebble Beach Food & Wine Festival, and now as promised, we're happy to share the local highlights and sights from the event, as witnessed by Eater LA:

On Ryan Scott: "Ryan Scott, the San Francisco chef from the current season, was kept on a short leash by his publicist at one of the after parties. He couldn't say a peep about the show, but said he's been hanging out in LA and had dinner at fellow cheftestant Antonia Lofaso's Foxtail. And true: He's a hugger, because, you know, he's from California. "

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Over the weekend, the first annual Pebble Beach Food and Wine Festival was held, and tickets to the picturesque seaside shindig were fetching up to $5K. Along with mega-name attendees like Thomas Keller, Tom Colicchio, Ming Tsai, Elizabeth Falkner, Gary Danko, Hubert Keller, Charles Phan, and Jacques Pepin (to name just a few), Eater LA was on hand for some first-hand accounts—including some candid shots of Father Keller (pictured, right). Please do head down to Eater LA for a full recap later today (complete with all your favorite Top Cheffers), but until then, kindly note that the place to be was the wine room, Iron Chef Morimoto is a master on the golf course and Big TK couldn't get a table at his own event. For now, we just have to point out the Chronicle's clever juxtaposition of quotes from the super chefs and their (rich) super stalkers fans:

Super Chefs: "[Thomas] Keller took all the attention in stride, but acknowledged that 'the groupie fan thing is sort of absurd.'"

Super Fans: "'I just want to shake your hand,' said 20-year-old Joshua Berman [to Keller], a Providence, R.I., culinary school student who traveled across the country to volunteer at the event and be in the shadow of his heroes."

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Last night, Thomas Keller appeared on Charlie Rose, and even though Rose's first question was "What is it you know about cooking?", it's a fascinating discussion overall, particularly for Father Keller fans. More concerned than ever with making the restaurant world a better place, His Highness is in full regal, philosophical mode, talking about his failures, his role in Ratatouille, other big name chefs (Gordon Ramsay, David Chang), the origin of his famous Oysters and Pearls dish, the changing role of the modern chef and even how he closed the French Laundry for five months to open Per Se. Other highlights from the conversation:

On his desired legacy: "One that has been impactful, that helps [my staff] do their job better. For diners, just the memories."

On how often he's in the kitchen: "As often as I can be. [Chuckles]"

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TENDERLOIN—Over on the "wrong" side of the Hilton, the Fishbowl—Fish & Farm's adjacent seafood bar—has hit some delays and won't be open as soon as previously expected. According to our source, Team F&F is still working on various aspects of the contracting angles, and they are still awaiting the finishing touches (carpeting, etc.) The current opening date: "soon." Stay tuned, won't you? [EaterWire Inbox, previously]

THE MISSION—Proving once again that predicting restaurant opening dates is like hitting a moving target, delays are afoot in on Valencia and 23rd too, as Beretta has pushed back its grand opening to next week. The move is reportedly self-imposed (read: not permit related), so further delays aren't expected. The new date for the revamped Last Supper Club is next Tuesday, April 1st. More on Beretta here. [EaterWire]

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Pictured above is the current scene in Yountville at Thomas Keller's Bouchon, which remains open (albeit with a limited menu) during its kitchen renovation. On the right, you have the trucks and construction crews dominating the parking lot, but what we really want to point out is the photo on the left that sees some highly dubious port-o-potty placement in the bakery's outdoor area. Now, far be it for us to criticize the Church of Latter Day Keller, but this is a scene that would raise eyebrows at any restaurant, let alone a Thomas Keller one. We have to believe that maybe His Highness should have opted to transplant the bathrooms to an area that, you know, isn't the outdoor dining area. The setting: a fresh, crisp Napa morning, complete with gourmet Bouchon goods, fresh gourmet coffee and the fine stench of stagnant gourmet urine wafting through the spring air.
· Keller Dispatch: Behind the Bouchon Expansion [~ESF~]
· KellerWire: Details on the Burger Project and MORE! [~ESF~]

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Frank Bruni, in a sort of "DVD extras" feature to his best new restaurants nationwide extravaganza, takes a long look at the most controversial exclusion from his top ten list: His Highness Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc. Like Mr. Frankie's Ad Hoc experience itself, his lengthy blog review features an enormous disparity between highs and lows, many of which we can't help but wonder how/if they will affect Keller's upcoming burger project, particularly the complaint(s) about overwrought informality. Anyway, to the carnage ... and the glory:

Bad News: Bruni Doesn't Like Shticks: "Ad Hoc is where the chef Thomas Keller stages an experience infinitely more casual than he does up the road, at the French Laundry. I emphasize the word 'stages' because part of what doesn't quite work about the restaurant is the transparently studied — and thus sort of shtick-y — nature of its informality. It's too aggressively, self-consciously, cutely informal."

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In what might be described as an upset, Urasawa in Beverly Hills has been named the best restaurant in all of the land in a new dining survey by Opinionated About Dining food blogger Steve Plotnicki. Thought to someday contend with the likes of Zagat and Michelin, Plotnicki's guide was conducted over 10 months, was compiled by "opinionated destination diners" and contains semi-indecipherable scores a la the Zagat guide. Urasawa tops the list, but is followed closely by the French Laundry at #2 and Manresa at #3 (tied). The rest of the top 50 includes some Bay Area restaurants: Chez Panisse, Coi, Masa's, Boulevard and Cyrus. But the big news is that His Highness Thomas Keller, for the first time in memory, is sitting in second place for some reason. That, and Los Angeles somehow outscored the Bay. We're calling shenanigans on those last two items (and perhaps renewing the interstate intrastate rivalry).

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Coming to you live from the main stage of the Sobe Fest, we're here bringing you a live blog of the 2008 Golden Clog Awards, much to the chagrin of the festival honchos. You'll recall, this little award show is the brainchild of Tony Bourdain and Michael Ruhlman's darkest, drunkest nights. The full list of nominees was announced earlier in the week. Bourdain and Ruhlman just took the stage about 30 minutes late, much to the female groupies' delights (the wine flows early down here). Bonus tease: rumor has it one Rocco DiSpirito will be on hand to give out his own award.

2:35: Up first: THE FERGUS, for greatest achievement in pork, and/or guts. It's between Martin Picard of Montreal's "Au Pied de Cochon"; David Chang of New York's "Momofuku Noodle Bar and Momofuku Ssam and ..."; Chris Cosentino of San Francisco's "Incanto" And your winner is ... David Chang! Accepting the Golden Clog is ... Aaron Sanchez?

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The empty seats at O Izakaya: here to stay? [Photo: Flickr/ kornze]

· O Izakaya Lounge's Review Reaction: "Bauer Loved Us!!!" [LiveJournal]
· Former Zuni Line Cook Haunted By Chickens [SFBG]
· Hops Shortage Spurring Price Increases For Beer [SJMN]
· Don't Call It a Comeback For One Martin Yan [Chron]
· Thomas Keller Endorses Artisanal Vermont Butter [NYT]
· Complain About Surcharges, But It's Not as Bad as This Receipt [CHOW]

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Now, we're of the mindset that at this point, Thomas Keller, in his relentless quest to achieve god status, can (and might) charge whatever he damn well pleases, particularly at the French Laundry. But the Yountville locals aren't taking too kindly to the rising prices at the under-renovation Bouchon, the accessible bistro where main plates once fell in the $15-25 range. From our trusty Napa correspondent: "Now I know how they are paying for the remodel. $40 for an entree at Bouchon in Yountville. This is not Manhattan, SF or the French Laundry!"
· Keller Dispatch: Behind the Bouchon Expansion [~ESF~]

The lounge at Coi [Photo: Yelp/Paul C.]

· The Local Man Behind the Tofu at Slanted Door, Coi, Etc. [Mighty Food]
· Magical Fried Chicken at Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc [Amuses Bouche]
· Mario Batali Doesn't Care if You Like His Ravioli, Music [Gawker]
· Sommeliers Keep Getting Younger and More Enthusiastic [Epi Log]
· It's Time For Manresa's Modernista Citrus Dinner [ManresaBlog]
· California Food Labeling Lawsuit Upheld [Chron]

· Turmoil in Kellerville? Even More French Laundry Job Openings [Mouthfuls]
· Zuni Lives Up the Hype, In-N-Out Not So Much [CH]
· Lunch Options Near the Ballpark: Java House, Slim, Few [CH]
· Jack London Square: "It's Become a Ghost Town" [Yelp]
· The "Logic" of Splitting a Top Tier Meal, Yelper Style [Yelp]

The glory that is Waterbar [Photo: Eater SF Flickr Pool/image415]

· Teriyaki Experience Set to Challenge Panda Express [CCT]
· Simple Dishes Shine at the Sunset Branch of Pacific Catch [B+B]
· Battle of the Chefs Pits Rick Corbo (Ducca) v. Travis Flood (Moose's) [SFCD]
· Places to Ring in the Chinese New Year [Zagat]
· Top Chefs Say Japanese Knives Make Food Taste Better [Salon]
· Taxicabs Are Ruining San Francisco Diners' Nights [BAB]

We already touched on the future of the Washbag earlier this morning, and now there's word that the famed Julius' Castle, uh, castle is on the market as well, though for rental only. Landlord Jim Payne says the guys previously running the restaurant are officially "out," and as of last week, the anachronistic space is available. Of course, this in turn means that arguably the most picturesque restaurant in town is up for grabs. Big-name restaurateurs, we're looking at you; let's make this happen. The place has the potential to be so much more than the oddity it has been in recent years. Bouchon Castle, anyone?

Sidenote: when asked if he would consider an outright sale, Payne responded with a grin and quipped, "No one could afford it."
· The Shutter: Julius' Castle Closes, Forever or Temporarily [~ESF~]

This is First Word, wherein Eater and/or its correspondents sit for hours at steamy community board meetings to bring back the first word of new establishments and the like. Today, a very special recap of last week's Yountville city council meeting.

A pair of big ticket items were on the Yountville Town Council agenda last week: Thomas Keller's new restaurant and Michael Chiarello's resto/retail project. Keller's Burgers and Half-Bottles concept was approved by a three to one margin, leading us to wonder who exactly votes against Food Jesus. The conditions and details are as follows: 19 counter seats, take-out service, 1335 square feet and a shared kitchen with Ad Hoc, though there will be two separate entrances for the restaurants. According to our man on the scene, Keller isn't exactly thrilled about the small size of the space, but there weren't any other options in the area. In any event, Thomas Keller take-out service is officially en route.

JACKSON SQUARE—The craziness continues at Myth, where wine honcho Alex Fox—last thought to be joining the Kuleto Brigade at Epic Roasthouse sometime soon—will instead be staying at Myth until the sale is final (thought to be sometime in March), according to tomorrow's Inside Scoop. Unfortunately, chef Sean O'Brien's last day is now set for January 31st, which poses several more questions. [Scoop, Item #4]

TINSELTOWN—The best movie ever featuring a Thomas Keller cameo, Disney/Pixar blockbuster Ratatouille, has been nominated for a whopping five Academy Awards: Best Animated Feature Film of the Year, Achievement in Music Written for Motion Pictures (Original Score), Achievement in Sound Editing, Achievement in Sound Mixing and Original Screenplay. [Oscar.com]

· Looking For the "Largest/Best/Really Large/Unique Wine List" [CH]
· "Remarkable" Grapefruit and Bacon Salad at Ad Hoc [CH]
· The Wine Bar at the Napa Whole Foods Rules All [CH]
· Fleming's Steakhouse Is Extremely Average [Zagat]
· Are Weekend Night Crowds Regulars Or Amateurs [eGullet]
· Rumors: Might a Miraculous BBQ Truck Be Coming to Town? [Yelp]
· Zero Keller Votes For the Most Elegant Thing in the Universe [Yelp]

· Thomas Keller Tells the Story of How He Became Food Jesus [eG]
· La Trappe Quickly Winning Over Belgian Beer Lovers [CH]
· New Reports of One Market Service Issues [CH]
· The Great Inner Sunset Pizza Thread of the Week [CH]
· The Gentle Art of Using a Restaurant Gift Card [Zagat]
· Making a List of All 24-Hour Restaurants in Town [Yelp Convo]

A brand-new Whole Foods opened yesterday with much ado in Napa, marking the 25th branch of the market in the state, and the first one up in Napa. Earlier in the week, we put out a call for eyewitness accounts, and commenter Napavore was kind enough to brave the chaos and report back from the opening extravaganza. His words follow:

The morning started at 8:45 am with fanfare from the high school marching band, released doves soaring poetically in loops and then off to the distance, gourmet foods on little trays, chefs in white ... and crowds of people.

The grand opening of Whole Foods was both big news for Napa and at the same time anti-climactic. While their store, the foods, and the produce are beautiful and clean, it's basically a normal gorgeous Whole Foods, which also means not cheap, especially compared to Trader Joe's next door. Some nice additions were the culinary center (which offers cooking classes and knife skills and other demos), a wine bar (pictured above), cheese bar and walk-up window for coffees and pastries.