Even though she may boast an iPhone, Alice Waters always emanates a love of tradition and the old-fashioned. Yet, when the Sun-Times asked her opinion on the Chicago molecular gastronomy superstar restaurants, she knocked them as a part of the larger problem governing America's food. Rather harshly, we might add:
Waters dismisses the vogue for "molecular gastronomy," the high-tech, cutting-edge culinary efforts of such restaurants as Moto, Alinea and Avenues that have given Chicago international gastronomic stature. "Looking at food as entertainment, that's how we got into this mess."Those are astringent words for some of the most acclaimed restaurants in the country. Surprising? Perhaps not entirely, but assuming she's been to the restaurants in question, we can't help but wonder her opinions on the actual meal. In fact, can you imagine a better study in contrasts than having dinner next to Alice Waters at Alinea? It would be like bringing William Shakespeare to a screening of The Godfather. Or something.
"I want to look at food as tasting and looking and being so I can recognize it. We have to look at it as nourishment, as something precious," she says. "We must feed every child in this delicious way."
· Waters shares 'Food' philosophy [Sun-Times]