Josh Sens has a mere 2.5 stars for the still-abuzz Spruce, filing Mark Sullivan's tony, neighborhood cuisine as consistent and comfortable, if a bit too safe: "Sullivan specializes in a kind of cooking that rarely stays within a single country's borders, but also rarely strays where you've never been. This is California cuisine executed with near spotless precision, safe enough for bavette-steak-and-potato palates but freshened with enough flash to make you think you might be eating on the edge." [SFM]
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