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Patricia Unterman files in from three-year-old Eccolo, another example of a Chez Panisse alum branching off. This time, it's Christopher Lee, whose Berkeley restaurant adds some niceties to the standard set by Waters: "Though [Lee] shares principles with the mothership—the worship of local, seasonal and artisanal ingredients —his dishes are richer, meatier and heartier. After a meal at Eccolo, you know you have eaten. Plus, Eccolo has a bar, a real bar that serves martinis and cocktails." [SFE]

Chez Panisse

1517 Shattuck Avenue, , CA 94709 (510) 548-5525 Visit Website

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