Tanis on Alice

In a recommended profile on David Tanis, the Chez Panisse chef dishes on Alice Waters' role in the kitchen: "'Of course she gets the multitude of the credit. She's more telegenic, photogenic, all those things' ... At Chez Panisse, Mr. Tanis has carte blanche in the kitchen; Ms. Waters is the official taster. 'Alice's role, a lot, is to be an honest critic about what she sees. It's useful,' he says, pausing hesitantly. 'Oh, it's annoying,' he adds jokingly (I think). 'But don't write that.'" [G&M]