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Week in Reviews

The Tower of Bauer finally files on trendy waterfront Peruvian heavyweight La Mar. For the most part, he deems it an up-and-down experience and worthy of just two stars. Hosts are "clueless" but service is "slick"; the classics (ceviches, causas) are done well, but MB frowns upon the modern dishes, desserts and even the space itself. But the bigger picture for Gaston Acurio's American foothold is evident: "It's clear Acurio is trying to bring his food to a larger audience. If my visits are any indication, he's created a runaway hit, even if the food doesn't always live up to expectations." [Chron]

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