Michael Bauer takes a trip across the Golden Gate to Sausalito's Poggio, where chef Peter McNee's still-growing restaurant is now firing on all cylinders, resulting in one of The Bauer's most glowing reviews of the new year:
When done well - and I can't remember when I've had better - [bollito misto] has no rival. However, what convinced me that the chef has a similar unrelenting passion as do people like Chris Cosentino at Incanto or Paul Bertolli of Fra' Mani, was his version of tripe soup ($9) ... It's not just these special dishes that deserve attention. Like his equally obsessed compatriots, McNee is continually researching and expanding his artisan repertoire, making sausages, terrines, limoncello and condiments such as mostarda - items that give the mostly Tuscan-inspired menu its depth.In anointing McNee a new heavy on the scene, Bauer upgrades Poggio to a deserved three stars. In fact, there wasn't one miss in the review, which makes us wonder what it takes for MB to bestow another 3.5 stars on a rustic, mid-scale place. [Chron]
It's a North Bay week for the Chronicle food section this week, as Carey Sweet weathers the crowds and doles out 2.5 stars—the max for a secondary review?—to Santa Rosa's Rosso's Pizzeria & Wine Bar: "The often merry mob is distracted by a large flat-screen TV showing European soccer, and loud music skipping from "Super Freak" to Rat Pack tunes. There are colorful Italian-Californian themed posters on the walls and an eclectic selection of magazines and crayons for the kids. It's a vibe that, judging from the clientele on my visits, appeals equally to stylish millennials, families and senior citizens. After the first bite, I realized all the waiting was worth it." [Chron]
A grumpy Ms. Meredith Brody finds herself unwelcome at Le P'tit Laurent, and then decides the Glen Park joint is authentic because it is indifferent, which we don't quite understand: "I liked the cozy setting more than the uneven food at Le P'tit Laurent, but my last couple of visits to Paris have shown that it's now easy to get indifferently prepared French food there, too, making the combination somewhat authentic. In Glen Park, at least you don't have to deal with an unfavorable exchange rate." [SFW]
Paul Reidinger finds a breath of Hayes Valley fresh air in Breezy's, a nice, normal change of pace from the tony restaurants popping up in the newly-yuppified neighborhood: "But forget about Breezy's pleasantly unobtrusive décor and its friendly, efficient service, which holds up well even at the heart of the pre-performance rush. You're there to eat, and the food is good. Quite good! Interesting without calling undue attention to itself, and reasonably priced in a fat-cat city where the word affordable often seems as if it's been read right out of the language." [SFBG]
ELSEWHERE: 7x7's Jessica Battilana explores the wondrous glory of Yoshi's, the Napa Valley Register takes an early look at Pica Pica, the Trib does pub grub at Ben 'n Nick's in Rockridge, and in our personal favorite of the week, the Daily Feed gang hangs out with scientist dorks at Lark Creek Steak. Earlier in the week, Bauer's Sunday review dropped three stars upon Oakland's Flora.