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For a special Valentine's Day re-review, Nicholas Boer heads to Berkeley's Fourth Street, where Christopher Lee and Eccolo remain as good as ever and the four-year-old gem is worthy of 3.5 stars, even with some controversial menu changes: "Democratizing the menu has, in my opinion, been a good thing. Lee's passion may not spring from a lunch menu laced with entree salads -- "large things with salmon and steak" -- but it invites the unadventurous to experience true craftsmanship." [CCT]

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