Vinography takes the plunge and declares something that all sommeliers and wine professionals apparently already acknowledge: "Food and wine pairing is just a big scam. Did I just say that? Yes I did. And increasingly I'm hearing it from wine professionals that I know -- spoken, of course, in hushed tones and off the record. Most professional sommeliers and wine writers wouldn't be caught dead uttering such terms in public, let alone publishing them ... And these [universal beliefs in such falsehoods], dear reader, are tacitly supported by the wine establishment around the world, quite possibly because there's a lot more money to be made if everyone acts as if they are true." [Vinography]
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