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In taking aim at Lafayette's Yankee Pier, Nicolas Boer notices the recent boom of fish and steak houses like Pat Kuleto's Epic and Waterbar, theorizing that the simple eateries have arisen from "an era of creative overkill in the kitchen." As for the Lark Creek Group's fourth Yankee Pier outpost, Boer sees it as a good restaurant that knows exactly what it wants to be: "The side dishes and sauces make it clear that nobody's trying to get fancy at Yankee Pier, but they are trying to get everything just right." [CCT]

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