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Week in Reviews

Michael Bauer takes a ride down the Peninsula to slam Ristorante Brio, the Burlingame endeavor by Pino Spinoso, the man behind Belden Alley's restaurant row. In his first visit, MB actually finds a sprinkling of redeemable qualities—along with calamari that "couldn't have been any chewier if the chef had used rubber bands"—but those quickly vanish over subsequent visits, where "the amateurish nature of the experience" gives him no choice but to drop the 1.5-star hammer. [Chron]