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Week in Reviews

Nicholas Boer has three stars for Berkeley's classic French bistro Liason, noting that after some opening hurdles and menu modifications, chef/owner Todd Kniess' certified green restaurant has found its niche on Shattuck's dining scene: "Even without the towering chef toques and sweet "bon soir" accents from the staff, Liaison has character ... When Kniess opened Liaison seven years ago — on the first day of spring — he weaved together three au courant ideas: French bistro cooking, small plates, and family-style dining. The 'petit plats' and shared platters have drifted away, but Liaison's core remains: an unapologetically bold country cuisine." [CCT]