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Week in Reviews

The Bauer files in from Santa Rosa's Stark's, and in bestowing 2.5 stars upon the modern steakhouse, he reminds everyone that more often than not, bells and whistles do not a great steakhouse make: " Back in the previous steakhouse heyday, diners simply ordered their preferred cut. These days, few things are straightforward. Would you like a 16-ounce rib-eye ($32) corn-fed steak from Brandt? A 16-ounce grass-fed rib-eye ($34) from Uruguay? Or how about an American Kobe bavette steak ($28) from Snake River Farms? It's hard to choose, because they're all prepared so well. Waiters go into so much detail about how some steaks are wet-aged for 35 days, while others are dry-aged on the premises that my eyes glaze over. Just bring me the beef." [Chron]

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