The Bauer files in from Santa Rosa's Stark's, and in bestowing 2.5 stars upon the modern steakhouse, he reminds everyone that more often than not, bells and whistles do not a great steakhouse make: " Back in the previous steakhouse heyday, diners simply ordered their preferred cut. These days, few things are straightforward. Would you like a 16-ounce rib-eye ($32) corn-fed steak from Brandt? A 16-ounce grass-fed rib-eye ($34) from Uruguay? Or how about an American Kobe bavette steak ($28) from Snake River Farms? It's hard to choose, because they're all prepared so well. Waiters go into so much detail about how some steaks are wet-aged for 35 days, while others are dry-aged on the premises that my eyes glaze over. Just bring me the beef." [Chron]
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