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Week in Reviews

Straightforward bistro classics and, uh, thick water tumblers are just a few of the selling points rattled off by Patricia Unterman in her review/press release for Florio: [Waiters] just get you what you need at the right moment. Even Florio's classic décor makes me hungry: black-and-white checked floor, wood paneling, half-curtained windows, ceiling fans, shoulder-high mirrors, school house lamps, white linen and butcher paper on the tables, heavy silverware, thick Florio water tumblers that feel good in your hand. I could live here. ... When I want to treat myself to the rare meal eaten only for pleasure — and make my long-suffering martini, meat-and-potato loving dining companion happy — Florio is where we head." [SFE]