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Spotlight on Ad Hoc

On the heels of Frank Bruni's take on Ad Hoc some weeks ago, another writer from the Times—where they are clearly fascinated by Thomas Keller's casual endeavor—is dispatched to the place for three consecutive nights: "If you are someone who must have the sauce on the side or who spurns butter in that sauce, Ad Hoc may not be for you. If you have food allergies or aversions, staff members will try to please you ... But this dining experience is an exercise in giving up control. You don't choose, they do. That's the game." The conclusion after three meals in a row at Ad Hoc, in case you wondering: "That was one happy restaurant. And I was one happy customer." [NYT]