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Bruni Love Affairs

Three weeks after he proclaimed Ubuntu the second-best new restaurant in all the land, a giddy Frank Bruni just can't quit the Napa rising star, because he just learned that Jeremy Fox offers a $14, four-course kids' tasting menu: "What pleases me in particular about Ubuntu's approach is that their obviously pared-down price suggests a commitment to creating a new generation of eaters with discernment, with a real appreciation of good food, real food, as opposed to over-processed junk. There's no way Ubuntu is making much money on that children's menu itself ... Its accommodation and encouragement of child diners, however, bespeak a genuineness and openness that are impossible to ridicule." [Diner's Journal]