Across the Bay, Nicholas Boer forgives the small faults of Acquacotta, mostly because he loves the concept of the tiny Alameda trattoria that tries to raise the proverbial bar: "When the chef and the owner are one and the same it's a very good sign ... I'm not sure everyone appreciates how much love and commitment it takes to open and run a restaurant like Acquacotta. Before restaurants such as Chez Panisse came along, we'd have to travel to another country to get the same experience. That's why I like to give them my full appreciation." [CCT]
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