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Week in Reviews

Across the Bay, Nicholas Boer forgives the small faults of Acquacotta, mostly because he loves the concept of the tiny Alameda trattoria that tries to raise the proverbial bar: "When the chef and the owner are one and the same it's a very good sign ... I'm not sure everyone appreciates how much love and commitment it takes to open and run a restaurant like Acquacotta. Before restaurants such as Chez Panisse came along, we'd have to travel to another country to get the same experience. That's why I like to give them my full appreciation." [CCT]