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Week in Reviews

In another review extolling the virtues of a great neighborhood restaurant across the Bay (we're sensing a pattern in Oakland), Nicholas Boer has a glowing three stars for the offshoot of Potrero Hill's Aperto, Bellanico: "Today's neighborhood restaurants continue to get more sophisticated, just as they become more relaxed. At Bellanico, the combination draws in families, older couples and young foodies from the surrounding Oakland's Glenview neighborhood. We should all have such a place we can walk to, but if you don't, Bellanico is worth the drive ... A neighborhood trattoria needs more than good food, of course, to succeed. It needs warm personalities, and the servers — dressed in black — on both my visits were sparkling: lighthearted and welcoming without being intrusive." [CCT]