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Gimmicks

Looking squarely at Thomas Keller and the French Laundry's many ironic dishes (coffee/donuts, steak/eggs, tongue/cheek), the Observer tackles the popularity of gimmicky foodstuffs, and they're not totally amused: "We have entered an era of Ironic Food, with chefs taking working-class staples, citifying them into nearly unrecognizable form and serving them with a wink and a smile to the upper crust." [NYO via Eater]

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