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Week in Reviews

John Birdsall gets the CCT review this week, and takes a trip to Anytown, USA to see the supreme gimmickery afoot at Pleasanton's Eddie Papa's: "The result is a big menu with a hefty specials component, a list that changes weekly but organized monthly around a different region of the country. It's complicated, like keeping up with your travel-happy parents' senior cruise schedule: In May, it was Alaska and the Pacific Northwest; in June, Hawaii, then on to New England ... Even when the food is less than perfect, the owners never fail to sell the concept." [CCT]