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In the wake of the Chron's two-star affair there, Patricia Unterman takes her turn at Elizabeth Falkner's high-profile, experimental magnum opus, Orson. The review, though, is a bit of an oddity, opting for a blow-by-blow meal recap while veering away from any strong opinions or true conclusion: "In some way, Orson could only be in San Francisco. Falkner parses our civic anthem 'great product from great farms and people passionate about cuisine' at the bottom of the menu. And her creativity and energy somehow feel home-grown." [SFE]

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