Count the religious metaphors as Patricia Unterman sings the many deserved praises of Camino, Russell Moore's transcendent monastery that is a sanctuary for culinary pilgrims and Alice acolytes (or something like that). Her conclusion: "My only quibble with all this heavenly cooking based on beautiful ingredients is that the menu seems caught between offering a single family-style meal, which it really wants to do, and providing cafe-style choice ... Camino takes us so close to a realm of otherworldly perfection that with a tiny bit of rerouting, it will get us there. [SFE]
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