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Week in Reviews

Lady Unterman formally kicks off the Valencia dosa wars with the first take on Udupi Palace, and it's a miraculous one: "Unlike its stylish dinner-house neighbor Dosa, Udupi serves nonstop all day and keeps everything cheap, at $7 or less ... Service by a slightly disorganized team of nice waiters in burgundy Udupi-monogrammed polo shirts can be slow, especially if one of those pushed together tables of 14 has slipped in just before you. No matter. This miraculous, affordable, soul-satisfying South Indian cooking that somehow sits lightly even though you've eaten like a hod carrier, is worth any inconvenience." [SFE]