The Napa hometown paper is the latest to sing the praises of Meadowood's 31-year-old star Christopher Kostow. There's a blow-by-blow review, and in the accompanying profile, Kostow insists that even with his playful combinations (Dungeness ice cream with honeydew consommé), it's still about ingredients: "I'd say 90 percent of the time it's the ingredients that determine [what will be on the dinner menu]. Five percent comes about because of technique and 5 percent due to some crazy, freakin' idea I had." [NVR]
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