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Week in Reviews

2008_08_orsonsmall.jpgThe September issue of San Francisco Magazine is online, and Josh Sens pays a visit to the polarizing Orson. Like others before him, Sens praises the attempt, but also thinks that Elizabeth Falkner ultimately falls short more often than not: "Sometimes Orson's problem is muddied execution. At other times, it's a flawed idea ... Detractors will be quick to brand it as pretentious, while critics may pull punches for fear of seeming like they just don't understand. Count me, then, among the mystified. My problem with Orson isn't its approach. Other Bay Area restaurants (Coi, Ubuntu, and Rubicon, for example) have dared to be different—but few have managed to feel so contrived." [SFM]