Baueriffic has plenty to say about the glossy design of Gitane—he compares the space to a carnival funhouse mirror, a modern version of Rick's Cafe Americain, and the set of a soft-porn flick—but he heartily approves of the look, and the fare isn't far behind: "The food, too ... maximizes the exotic, sensual theme ... [Chef Lisa Eyherabide] is adept at interpreting these flavors and creating a cohesive menu. Her kitchen further supports my theory that some of the best cooking comes out of small spaces. " Upshot: three stars. [Chron]
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