Less than a year after dropping the tres on Epic Roasthouse, The Tower of Bauer revisits Pat Kuleto's meaty mansion, this time with some ugly results. The view and the steaks remain unparalleled, but nearly everything has slipped since opening, mean that the hefty pricetag isn't so easily digested anymore:
When I originally reviewed the restaurant in April, I was a big fan. I'm still a supporter of the steak, but from there things fizzle a bit ... When taken together, the view rather than the food seems to be the lure of Epic ... when a meal costs more than $100 a person by the time you add a modest wine and tip, there needs to be more.It's a downgrade to 2.5 stars, and MB saves the more, ahem, entertaining quotes for the individual dishes, whether it be garlic broth ("slightly gritty and tepid") and meatballs ("cold and gelatinous") or duck confit salad ("sloppily composed and poorly dressed") or the whole roasted pompano ("it looked like a cat had clawed at it"). Um, but the good news is that, between Epic and Waterbar, Kuletoville still has 4.5 stars total? [Chron]
Meredith Brody kicks off her new year with a bum dish and subsequent disappointing experience at Loretta Keller's Moss Room, though she wonders why everyone likes it except for her: "Alas, the dish I chose — after hesitating over roasted breast of guinea fowl with almond curry and root vegetables — was almost inedible ... The room was full, but I wasn't sure why. Was it the relative newness of the place, or its interesting location? No other S.F. museum houses so ambitious a restaurant. Based on this uneven meal, I didn't feel compelled to return. I wasn't completely taken with the room or the food — although my friends were considerably happier." Perhaps multiple visits should have been involved for further investigation as to why the restaurant is so popular and why everyone else was happy with the meal? [SFW]
Up next, Paul Reidinger engages in an update of his own at Cafe Kati, the French-Asian fusion joint that has kept its vision fresh: "The restaurant, nonetheless, was a neighborhood restaurant, snug and warm, with a handful of tables and a sense that each dish was being carefully handmade in the small kitchen behind the dining room. And so it remains." [SFBG]
THE ELSEWHERE: The PressDem approves of the 'cue at BarbersQ, the CoCo Times finds Danville's Sideboard to be an entirely odd but pleasing experience, the EBX is at Berkeley's "latest and glammest" gastropub Meridian International Sports Cafe, the Merc discovers a not-terrible cafe with every sort of cuisine at Angelou's in San Jose, Team Bunrab does Tuesday fried chicken at SPQR, both Slice and No Salad file dispatches from the original Pizzeria Delfina this week, and of course, the Sunday Chronicle had 2.5 stars for Zinnia.