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Week in Reviews

2009_10_bocanova.jpgThe full recap of the week's restaurant reviews is slated for tomorrow, as usual, but in the meantime, Matthew Stafford files the first official take on Bocanova in Jack London Square. Rick Hackett's Pan-American endeavor gets high marks for its cocktails and setting ("a beautifully remodeled 1920s ice house, an airy, high-ceilinged industrial-chic rendezvous"), but even though the raw bar and grill items already shine, some of the food—like the unfortunate-sounding Flan in a Bag, "a thick, gummy bastardization of the classic egg custard"—is still inconsistent. [EBX]

55 Webster St, Oakland, CA