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2009_10_commissfm.jpgJosh Sens hits a biggie in this month's San Francisco Magazine with a visit to Commis. Unlike Mr. Bauer, Sens finds a restaurant that is a refined spectacle to behold: "Nothing clanks or splatters. Such is the calm and grace behind the kitchen counter of the most compelling restaurant of the year... On any given evening, the chef’s imagination runs so freely that you realize he’s not riffing on tradition—he’s ranging into territory of his own." In the end, it adds up to a well-earned 3.5 stars for James Syhabout. [SFM]

3859 Piedmont Ave., Oakland, CA

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