For the third time in less than three years, Biggity Bauer reviews Bar Tartine, which is now under the helm of ex-Slow Club chef Chris Kronner. Last time El Miguelito was there, he handed out to 2.5 stars to Jason Fox, while noting high prices and "left-field ingredients." Kronner has lowered prices and simplified the menu to the style that MB loves:
The dishes are familiar, but Kronner brings something extra to each one, keeping a few favorites and adding homey American combinations ... After four years, it feels as if Bar Tartine has found its way, thanks to Kronner's fresh, enthusiastic execution of the homey American menu.Unlike the Fox Era, Bauer suggests that Kronner's menu—and price point—correlates more strongly to its surroundings, saying that it "feels right for the food and locale." In the end, it's an upgrade to three stars for Bar Tartine. [Chron]
Amanda Gold rides shotgun in the Datebook today, handing out a deuce to the Richmond's non-sushi Japanese joint Kappou Gomi: "Most dishes are beautifully plated, but execution suffers on occasion ... It may not be what you're used to, but that's the whole point. With more than 230 dishes on the menu, there's plenty for every taste - just not sushi or hibachi." [Chron]
Meredith Brody is in the Richmond too, doing Korean BBQ at Muguboka: "Over the course of two meals, we'd only been able to dip into what Muguboka offers ... Muguboka's modest facade hides a wealth of exciting cooking." [SFW]
THE ELSEWHERE: The PressDem has three stars for Point Reyes Station standout Osteria Stellina, the EBX is at Alameda Cal-Med spot Asena, the MIJ's Tanya Henry heads up to Petaluma's Banyan Tree Thai, Bar Bites does Dosa on Fillmore, and lest we forget, the Sunday Bauer review had a mediocre two stars for Oakland's massive Lake Chalet.