Oftentimes, the meal that restaurant critics have the most control over is breakfast. For his part, Josh Sens hangs out on most mornings with "middle-aged Korean men slumped in their chairs" in Oakland: "At least three mornings a week, you can find me at Seoul Gom Tang, a windowless restaurant on Telegraph Avenue ... It’s a breakfast fit for a king on a pauper’s budget." [SFM]
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