The ever-changing Terzo gets reviewed for the third time in three years, but the first time, Mark Gordon's restaurant loses its trio of Chronicle stars, thanks in part to unwarranted prices and some troubling upselling from the servers:
Terzo has never been a bargain destination, and some claimed that the small-plates menu was expensive. ... Paired with what I thought were high prices, [the upselling] became annoying, especially when you see that the restaurant also adds a 3.5 percent service charge for the San Francisco health care program.Though Gordon can still cook and the modern interior remains one of the best in the area, the ultimate diagnosis of Dr. Bauer is that Terzo unfortunately "offers too little for too much." Hence, the Steiner Street spot gets itself a new rating: 2.5 stars. [Chron]
Carey Sweet has two stars for an Asian fusion restaurant in Alameda called Zen but the bigger story here might be that she actually expected sushi pizza to be good: "...tapas at Zen also means sushi pizza ($12), another Asian-Italian dish that sounded so implausible I couldn't wait to try it - until my personal-size pie was in front of me. The ingredients are all good - cool, seared ahi slices on a warm, soft and possibly butter-fried wheat flatbread, topped with a spicy aioli, microgreens and tomatoes. But they didn't go together and the "crust" wasn't crusty. For me, the dish works best in the imagination." [Chron]
Matthew Stafford pinch-hits for Meredith Brody at the Weekly, and decides to revisit the classic of San Francisco classics: "Today's Tadich really isn't that different from the one of a century ago ... A loaf of that irresistible sourdough, a jug of Cakebread's sauvignon blanc, and a platter of freshly caught, perfectly grilled sole (or sand dab, sea bass, or swordfish) is one of the authentic tastes of San Francisco, even — especially — after all these years." [SFW]
Paul Reidinger appreciates Colibri for appreciating the complexity of Mexican cuisine, which needs more appreciation: "...like its huge neighbor to the north, [Mexico is] a mishmash of cultures from old world and new. The result is a cuisine not quite like any other in the world, and Colibrí offers a nice sampling of it." [SFBG]
THE ELSEWHERE & THE BLOGS: Stafford also files for the EBX this week at Oyster Reef in Oakland, the PressDem finds excellent entrees at Napa's Trancas Steakhouse, Bargain Bites goes to the Richmond's Little Vietnam Cafe, Bar Bites is at Buckeye Roadhouse, SFist revists Orson, Single Guy checks out Sidebar, YumDiary unearths surprising cioppino delight at Fog City Diner, and finally, the Sunday review was a 1.5-star affair at Reposado.