The Thursday paper is sadly Bauerless today, but we've still got Amanda Gold pinch-hitting for the big guy at Baby Blues BBQ. Gold—making her way though a "virtual feeding trough of smoky meats"—likes what she sees from the Venice Beach import but warns that traditionalists should come prepared:
Fans of Texas 'cue might be a little disconcerted when the beer-braised beef brisket arrives. It's pulled instead of sliced, but is tender and soaked with sweet and salty flavor - one of the best options ... The generous plates of food take center stage in the airy space, an eclectic blend of decorative elements that has a retro and kitschy vibe that's comfortable.In a non-shocker, Gold finds a dish dubbed the Suicide King to be "way over the top," but for the most part, it's an encouraging take on the hybrid 'cue joint on Mission Street. Final grade: the expected two stars. [Chron]
Now that the Peruvian heavyweight has a few months under its belt, La Mar Cebicheria is the subject of a revisit by Ms. Meredith Brody. Not only is the joint still completely booked, but the menu has been simplified. Nonetheless, Brody still gives it a thumbs-down: "La Mar is too loud and too pricey, and its food is too uneven for me, but tell that to the noisy hordes filling the place. I might consider taking a wonderful ceviche and that divine lomo saltado to go." [SFW]
Paul Reidinger is the first to take a crack at Noe Valley's newish City Grill, the replacement to Kookez: "City Grill is the good new restaurant in Noe Valley no one has heard of ... As to what emerges from the kitchen: it's good stuff, and this isn't surprising, given the quality of Coppola's nearby Lupa. Coppola has somehow managed to bring an Italian ethic of simplicity and straightforwardness to City Grill's Cal-American menu." [SFBG]
The April issue of San Francisco Magazine is up online, and with it, Josh Sens' take on Dosa on Fillmore. The namesake dish has made a successful transition to Pac Heights, but that's not the winner in the 2.5-star review: "Dosa, Part II (or Dosa: The Assimilation) comes scored and set-designed for its fancier new hood ... A dosa alone could make a modest meal, but starters are the restaurant’s greatest strength." [SFM]
THE ELSEWHERE: The MIJ finds much to like at a vibrant Marinitas, Jeff Cox has three PressDem stars for Jack and Tony's in Santa Rosa, the EBX does compost dining at Berkeley's Second Life Cafe, Single Guy is at Barlata, and the Sunday review was a three-star affair at Nopalito.
[Photo: Telstar Logistics/Flickr]