Josh Sens' monthly SF Mag offering is up online, and it's a 2.5-star affair at Heaven's Dog. Though Sens yearns for the more "freewheeling" Phan to make his presence known on the safe menu, ingredients are still top notch and the bar is the place to be: "As Phan tinkers with the menu, more flourishes may come. But this chef, who knows his spices, also knows his restaurant’s strengths. He conceived of Heaven’s Dog as an afterwork hangout and watering hole." [SFM]
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