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Week in Reviews

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Invoking comparisons to saintly stalwarts like Chez Panisse and Zuni Cafe, BauerHour busts out the three-star marker in his drive up to Point Reyes Station's modest Osteria Stellina: "Acknowledging purveyors is common in the Bay Area, but these sorts of results aren't. The chef-owner could give a master class in how to choose cooking methods that add supporting flavors and allow the star ingredients to shine." [Chron]