Patricia Unterman chimes in on the Accarrino-ized version of SPQR, noting that the restaurant has, in fact, changed a lot. In PU's eyes, the big winners are the pasta dishes, but there's much to love about Accarrino's technique: "The dinner plate is his canvas. Main courses really show off Accarrino’s strengths — technique, balance, depth of flavor, composition ... The road from fried Brussels sprouts, the former kitchen’s famous dish, to Accarrino’s fried pork belly takes the diner straight uphill." [SFE]
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