Patricia Unterman is the first critic to take a crack at Melissa Perello's buzzworthy month-old Castro spot, Frances. All in all, from the "gentle, professional" service to the design, it's a veritable rave for Perello and her magic baby: "Any ingredient Perello puts on the stove ends up tasting better than it ever has before. She’s a magician ... Rarely have I encountered such a comfortable match of food and wine. Notable are $18 carafes of very drinkable house red and white. Thoughtful details, not opulence, make Frances so compelling." [SFE]
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