Zero Zero Enters The Land Of Three Stars

The Bauer Slice takes a look at Bruce Hill's new SoMa pizza restaurant Zero Zero this week. It's quite clear the alleged focal point wasn't perfect on every visit: "The pizza is a work in progress and has improved on each visit." But Hill gets a pass on that: "anyone knows that learning the unique foibles of a new oven takes time, and it's beginning to come together at Zero Zero." As it turns out, "all of the supporting players could easily move into a starring role, making Zero Zero much more than a pizza restaurant."

Bauer sinks into "some of the best crudo outside of Japan" -- not surprising, since crudo is an Italian term. And he doesn't like the skillet-fried chicken thighs many others have raved about. Still he gets buzzed on a $30 punch bowl with "two big-time New Yorkers in the food business" and ends up liking "curveball" dishes like bucatini in uni butter, wild nettle agnolotti, and, of course, the soft serve with Da Vero olive oil he already fell in love with at Hill's Larkspur restaurant, Pizzeria Picco. Everything culminates in a hearty threesome for food, and a three stars rating overall. [Chron]

[Photo: Chron/Lance Iverson]