Just days after Bauer filed his review of the buzzy, Berkeley Japanese Ippuku, King Kauff follows suit with his take. "I count Ippuku as one of this year's new restaurants I'm most impatient to return to," he says early on. And although there were "minor errors" such as "Ippuku's big flaw:" the service, "each new discovery — the exquisitely tender turnips braised with ground chicken ($9), the chicken neck — increased my respect for the variety and depth of flavors [chef Christian] Geideman could eke out of chicken. It was due as much to the quality of the meat as it was to his skill." [SF Weekly]
Reidinger travels far back down memory lane to "a melancholy dinner on a damp winter night with my first love" before launching into this week's review of Italian-American restaurant, Capp's Corner, in North Beach. "If you like your pasta served in gargantuan portions, you will be happy here — and you'll be even happier if you like tomato sauces," is one of the more telling lines here. And although spaghetti and meatballs "was probably typical," the "veal tortellini were better" and the breaded eggplant with bechamel was "also satisfying." After additional references to Moonstruck, a "lovers' moon" and a "value-priced glass, or three, of Chianti ($3.50)," it's clear the man is smitten. [SFBG]
The Elsewhere: The Thursday Datebook review update is of Walnut Creek's Élevé, serving a Vietnamese cuisine of depth worth of 2.5 stars; Bar Bites sinks into the classic hotel bar at Five on Shattuck; Bargain Bite feels like a vegan member of the Jetson's family at Saturn Cafe, also in Berkeley; the EBX has a verbal shot of the authentic Italian eats at PIQ; the Marin IJ goes to the newly upgraded Cove Cafe on Angel Island; Metro SV hones its curry prowess at Steps of India; and finally the CoCo Times files a very positive review of Amy Murray's Revival Bar and Kitchen in Berkeley.
Inside Ippuku in Berkeley. [Photo: Lara Hata/SF Weekly]