The Bauer-O-Meter is seduced by 25 Lusk at first: "Few restaurants are as sexy" and "it has the speakeasy aura of Bix." But after he eats something, his tune, it changes: "It's clear the chef has talent, but the approach seems to come from an era when instead of highlighting great ingredients, a chef simply made everything taste good by disguising them." And as we all know, that's basically a cardinal sin in these parts. The 1.5 Bauer concedes for food gets help from stellar ambiance and decent service to yield 2 stars overall. [Chron]
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